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Summary of Contents for Meyers Manx Kick-Out Traditional
- Page 1 “Kick “Kick “Kick “Kick- - - - Out” Out” Out” Out” Traditional Traditional Traditional Traditional Build Instructions Build Instructions Build Instructions Build Instructions...
- Page 2 Meyers Manx heritage. As the best Meyers Manx ever, this Kick-Out kit reflects a 45 year legacy of constant design improvement, with vastly increased accessibility to both mechanicals and storage;...
- Page 3 Pan Shortening By David Helland - Club Member #50 The VW Bug combines a body shell and chassis to implement a very rigid "monocoque" body. The VW is not a true "monocoque" because the body can be removed by simply un-bolting it. The remaining chassis is called the "pan.”...
- Page 4 Pan Shortening - Continued Page 2 of 5 The frame now needs to be cleaned and prepared before shortening begins. The engine must be removed because it is heavy and the pan must be turned over to weld the bottom. Open the access hole at the front of the frame between the front torsion bar tubes and remove the shift rod after detaching it from the front of the transmission.
- Page 5 Pan Shortening - Continued Page 3 of 5 It is now time to cut using a reciprocating "sawsall" (an air powered cutting tool can also be used). It is important to not cut through the tubes that are located inside the tunnel so special care will have to be taken to locate and avoid them.
- Page 6 Pan Shortening - Continued Page 4 of 5 brake lever hole and then remove the short sections of the tubes. Then put a hose clamp around the front of the remaining emergency brake tubes so they will come together just behind the brake handle when the pan halves are shoved together.
- Page 7 Pan Shortening - Continued Page 5 of 5 the outside edges of the pan match. Use the silver pencil to draw a line on the overlapped portion of the rear section. Pull out the loose corner and cut off the excess material at the marked line with tin shears. Now fold the loose corner back in place;...
- Page 8 From manufacturing, the Manx body will have some sharp edges. Using 80 grit sandpaper on a rubber block or similar, sand the inner and outer fender edges of the Manx body. Do not hand sand the body edges. Hold the block at approximately a 30 degree angle. By sanding the glass in this manner, the gelcoat will not chip or crack along the edge.
- Page 9 Floor Pan Gasket Placement Needed: Stock VW floor pan gasket or truck cap foam insulation, contact cement, scissors. The floor pan gasket is fitted to the perimeter of the pan where the pan meets the body. In the corners, dart the gasket as shown.
- Page 10 Once the body mounts have been adjusted with the hammer, the upper angled flange should be parallel to the fiberglass as shown. When satisfied with the fit, have a helper hold the body in place while holes are drilled for the body mounting hardware. Using the original body mounting holes as guides, drill eight 5/16”...
- Page 11 TOOL LIST: 1. You will need 4 spring clamps (or “C” clamps) 2. Drill motor 3. 3/16” dia. drill bit 4. 3/8” dia. drill bit 5. Countersink bit 6. Masking tape or packaging tape Step #1 – Two molded in dimples will be found near the lower front edge of the hood. Drill these with a 3/8”...
- Page 12 Step #3 – Place the dashtub inside the body with clamps. Step #4 – Place the dashframe inside the body, Clamp to dashtub. Step #5 – Swing hood/cowl back down to body/dashframe. Step #6 – Rotate dashframe to fit to the cowl.
- Page 13 Step #8 – Using the 3/8” dia. drill-bits. Drill through Dashframe holes and through the body. Using the four 3/8” x 1” hex head bolts, nuts and washers (dashframe assy Part # 236). Place the bolts and washers on the outside against the fiberglass and the nuts on the inside of the dashframe and body after painting.
- Page 14 Step #12 – Dashboard Assy – Part #K-234 Lifting the cowl up slightly, the dash is fitted under the top edge of the cowl. The ends of the dash will reach around the ends of the dash frame to butt the ends of the cowl at the dash frames centerline.
- Page 15 FUEL TANK INSTALLATION: Any VW Bug gas tank will fit the same space provided, but I recommend the following: In 1968 a little door appeared just forward of the passenger door on all VW Bugs. This little door opened to a filler cap screwed to a neck within a rubber hose connected to the fuel tank under the hood.
- Page 16 ROLL BAR INSTALLATION: One of the most glaring mistakes in the building of a Meyers Manx dune buggy is the bad placement of the roll bar. The slight sloping back of the windshield (18° from vertical) is to be repeated in the roll bar –...
- Page 17 WIRE MANAGEMENT: Kick-Out Wiring the is a simple job whether an aftermarket harness or the included diagram is used. The attached wiring diagram was developed by the late David Helland. It is an excellent Kick-Out model from which to wire your Kick-Out A six-foot plus grey color 1¼”...
- Page 20 OPTIONAL PARTS INSTRUCTIONS: VENTED SIDEPOD ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS The sidepods are to be slipped up under the buggy’s fender, not to be slipped in between the body and the floorpan, but under the floorpan – along the bottom. At the outset, three of four body bolts should be removed from each side of the floorpan, to be drilled down through and replaced later (possibly with longer bolts).
- Page 21 Fig 2. Placing the screen over the duct opening, hold it in place with weights. Using a permanent marker, draw a line on the screen approximately ½” to ¾” outside and beyond the duct openings edge. Fig 3. After removing the excess screen (outside the drawn line) with tin snips, re-position the screen centrally over the opening and hammer to bend down the outer edges of the screen to conform as close as possible to the sanded fiberglass surface.
- Page 22 OPTIONAL PARTS INSTRUCTIONS:...
- Page 23 OPTIONAL PARTS INSTRUCTIONS: REAR DECK LID ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS The design of these hinges was to move the deck lid away as it opens, avoiding interference from the roll bar. We have completed the hinge assembly for you. The plastic edge trim provides a finished look and serves to protect the body from the abrasive fiberglass edge of the deck lid when closed.
- Page 24 the underside of the deck lid (being careful to stop against the inside, forward radius of the deck lid). While holding this position with helper, drill through the bottom hole of the triangular-shaped part. Using 5/16” x ¾” hex head bolt and fender washer on the outside against fiberglass, tighten with a 5/16”...
- Page 25 the lower hinge bracket and ¾” below the upper corner of the body. Simply pull the spring out of column and gravity does the rest. Fig. 4 The ¼” thick mahogany plywood floor has a piano hinge riveted in place for you. This provides the attachment to the front panel.
- Page 26 corner of the deck lid. Next, apply a 4”-5” square patch of masking tape to the underside of the deck lid and adjacent upper corner of the body. See Fig 6. With the deck lid closed, and reaching up under from the open front (towards the front of the car), mark by pointing a pen or pencil upwards (holding and sliding back and forth against the rear body wall) onto the underside of the deck lid.
- Page 27 8. The front panel should be placed in the car and can be held in position with duct tape – wrapping it around the top corners to the body. The small space at each end of the panel should be equal distance – the same. The piano hinge should be swung open against the inside vertical surface of the front panel.
- Page 28 More smiles per mile! Meyers Manx, Inc. PO Box 1491 Valley Center CA 92082 Phone: (760) 749-6321 Fax: (760) 751-0610 Shop Online: www.meyersmanx.com Email: info@meyersmanx.com...
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