Summary of Contents for RC-Hydros.com UL1ABU
- Page 1 UL1ABU Assembly Instructions Last revised: 6/13/2000 AMK RC-Hydros.com – 409 South Sixth Street – Phillipsburg, NJ 08865 – FAX 908-454-7882 http://www.rc-hydros.com support@rc-hydros.com...
- Page 2 Due to the fact that these boats are intended for use ONLY by experienced modelers, and that organized competition will frequently cause racers to push their equipment well beyond the design limits, RC-Hydros.com is NOT liable for ANY misuse of this product. Assembly or operation of this product implies acceptance of this policy.
-
Page 3: Specifications
SPECIFICATIONS Length: 24.5” at deck (622mm) Width: 11” (330mm) Weight: 40 oz (Ready to run except cells) (2.2 kg) ABS hull with Cordite motor. The ABS and fiberglass hulls weigh virtually the same and are equally strong. The ABS is much easier to build and finish, but fiberglass has “snob appeal.” Sport Recommendations: Motor: Graupner 700BB (included in GR1157 Hardware Package) -
Page 4: Kit Contents
1 Radio Box lid (clear) 2 Foam flotation “bricks” 1 Plywood Transom Doubler 1 Small foam flotation block 1 Plastic Transom Doubler Photo 1 - Parts of the UL1ABU kit. Not shown is the Fiberglass Ledge Strip. Page 4 of 16... -
Page 5: Before You Begin
THINGS YOU NEED TO PROVIDE Construction Materials Thin CA (cyanoacrylate instant glue) Thick/Gap filling CA CA Accelerator spray Light (3oz or less) fiberglass cloth Tools Electrical tape (3M white works best) Sharp hobby knife with spare blades Small sanding block Drill and bits (1/16", 3/32", 3/16”, 1/4”, and 3/8"... - Page 6 HULL CONSTRUCTION NOTE: When gluing with cyanoacrylate adhesives, always rough up the plastic parts slightly with 220-grit sandpaper to insure a good bond. Also, take care to keep the adhesive from marring the finish of the plastic parts. You can sand minor blemishes out, but why not take the extra care to avoid unnecessary work in the first place! Unless otherwise stated, use thin CA for all joints.
- Page 7 strips about 2” square. Fill any gaps in between the cloth and the hull or tube with thick CA. Photo 2 – Internal Chassis for All Hulls IF YOU ARE USING A RADIO BOX SKIP THIS STEP! Glue the other 8” tube crosswise in the boat right where the engine well ends.
- Page 8 Photo 3 – Chassis in Hull with No Radio Box Glue the two large foam flotation pieces into the sponsons using the silicone glue. To be especially prudent, we strongly advise you to get some more foam of this sort to be placed in the hull anywhere it will fit after construction is complete. The foam blocks need to be trimmed to fit into your hull.
- Page 9 PERFORMANCE CORNER: If you want to make your boat stronger, find some more fiberglass tubing (Dave Brown Pushrods are what we use) to add two pieces from the rear cross-brace to the transom. Plan ahead to prevent them from being in the way of your radio equipment! See Photo 4.
- Page 10 NOTE: At this point, the hull should fit relatively easily inside the perimeter of the deck. Excess plastic will be trimmed from the deck later. Photo 5 – Hull and Deck Taped Together (Top View) Tack the hull in place using thin CA with small drops near the taped places. Check alignment to verify that no twists have been introduced.
- Page 11 If you are satisfied with the straightness, begin gluing (it doesn’t take much!) starting at the cockpit, then working around the hull in both directions at the same time, much as was done when taping. Periodically check to insure that you haven’t introduced any twists.
- Page 12 Photo 8 – Open Boat Showing Foam in Cowling Trim the small foam block so that it fits snugly into the cowling as shown in Photo 8. This foam is intended only to keep the cowling afloat in case it is knocked off for some reason during operation.
- Page 13 Photo 9 – Radio Box and Ledge Strip Installation Sand the bottom of the radio box so that it is relatively smooth in order to permit the glue to bond better. Test-fit the radio box in position. The radio box has a small ledge in which the clear lid will rest.
- Page 14 Sand the edges of the removed hatch so that it fits nicely within the cut-out made in the deck. Round the edges so that they do not stick out above the deck surface when the hatch is in place. Trim one long edge of the plastic sponson doubler so that it allows the plastic to fit into the gap in the transom where the hull and deck meet.
- Page 15 (it just takes a little patience). This gives them a lot more room to move equipment around, and saves some weight. The choice is yours. If you have more questions about radio boxes, please feel free to e-mail us at support@rc-hydros.com Page 15 of 16...
- Page 16 GLOSSARY Afterplane On a 3-point hydroplane, this is the port of the boat behind the sponsons extending to the back of the boat. The front of the boat. Cavitation An air bubble or pocket of air that is trapped around the propeller, preventing the boat from obtaining speed.
Need help?
Do you have a question about the UL1ABU and is the answer not in the manual?
Questions and answers