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9. Turn the volume up 1/4 clockwise. You should be hearing some noise
from the speaker buzzer. If not, check to make sure that lead TP1 is
connected to lead TP2 on the circuit board.
10. Adjust the slug in L7 first for greatest noise, then adjust L4 and L5 for
even more noise. Adjust volume if necessary. Repeat these steps until
optimized. To adjust L4 and L5, stretch and contract the coils with your non-
metallic tuning tool until noise is stronger. If you don't have a signal
generator, you can set up the antenna, connect it up, wait for a satellite,
and adjust the coils for the clearest signal.
11. Using a frequency counter, connect a high impedance probe to pin 4 of
U3. Adjust C43 until you get a reading closest to channel 1 + 10.7 MHz, or
136.770MHz + 10.700MHz = 147.470MHz. If you don't have a frequency
counter, borrow a friends, or you can try and receive a known satellite and
tune this cap for best reception sound.
12. Switch in SCAN/MANUAL and turn the squelch control until the squelch
closes. Verify that the unit begins scanning when the skip button is pressed.
13. Now you can install L1, the 2.2uH green inductor that we did not install
earlier. (Marked red-red-gold-black). This will power your preamp through
the coax cable. It was not installed earlier due to the DC that would be
applied to your signal generator during testing and setup.
14. Using your voltmeter again, verify that there is 12VDC on the antenna
input's center lug. This will supply power to the preamp that will be mounted
up on your antenna.
15. If everything appears to be in working order up to this point, then you
have completed this unit, and can put the cover on. Otherwise you can flip
the page and begin stepping through the troubleshooting section.
WSR-1A• 24
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