Ripping; Resawing; Crosscutting - Sears Craftsman 113.29943 Owner's Manual

3.
4.
With the saw running, place a straight board (preferably
hardwood) against the miter gauge and hold it securely.
Make a smaff cut and pull the miter gauge back until
the cut is directly on the "Exact-l-Cut". (See figure 57.)
If both cut indicator shoes are aligned with the edges
of the cut, no adjustment is required. If not aligned,
loosen the two socket, flat-head screws with a 1/16-inch
hex-L wrench and slide the cut indicator shoes laterally
until the edge of each shoe is aligned with its respective
edge of the cut in the board. (See figure 58.) Tighten
both screws and recheck for accuracy of the adiustment.
RIPPING
The process of sawing wood with the grain is known as
"ripping". it is generally done with the aid of a rip
fence as a guide to positio_ and maintain the work at
correct width for the desired cut. (See figure 59.) Since
the work is pushed along the fence, it must have a rea-
sonably straight edge to make sliding contact with the
fence. Also. work must make solid contact with the table,
so that it will not wobble. Provide a straight edge, even
if this means temporarily nailing of an auxiliary straight
edge board to the work. If workpiece is warped, turn
the hollow side down.
2. The saw guard should be used during all ripping opera-
tions. The guard has a splitter which prevents the saw
kerr from closing and binding the blade.
3. Set the rip fence to desired width of cut, either by using
the scale on the fence guide bar, or measuring the dis-
tance between blade and fence. The fence _sgenerally
used on right-hand side of blade. Stand a little to the
right of center to avoid being sprayed with sawdust and
to be clear of work in case of a kickback.
4. Start the saw and advance the work, using the left hand
to hold work down and right hand to push it forward. As
:ut nears completion, move the left hand to a safe dis-
tance from saw blade, and push work through with right
hand a Eone.
CAUTION: Never reach in back of blade with
either hand to hold work down.
When the distance between the fence and saw blade is
less than the width of your palm, do not attempt to push
work through by hand. Use a push stick or pull work
through from behind saw. (See figure 60.)
Do not leave a long board unsupported so that the
spring of the board causes Jt to shift on the table. Use a
support to catch end of board behind the blade. If board
is quite long, use another support in front of saw blade.
(Figure 61 shows one type of support that is adjustable
for height and easily constructed.)
RESAWING
1. The process of cuffing thick boards into thinner ones is
known as "resawing". It is a ripping operation. (See
figure 62.) Small boards (up to 3-3/B-inch maximum
width) can be resawed in one pass, but larger boards
(up to 6-1/4-inch maximum) require two passes, one
along each edge of the board.
2. When two cuts from opposite edges are required, these
GUARD
Figure 59
./
:USH STICK
i-INCH SQUARES. /"
Figure 60
Figure 61
I
RIGHT
WRO
Figure 62 I F'g
should be made to overlap 112-inch from the approxi-
mate center of the board.
3. If the first cut is too deep, the kerf will close and bind
the saw on the second cut, with danger of kickback. Also,
when the kerf closes, the two sidesof the cut are no !anger
parallel to the saw blade, and the saw wilt cut into them
to spoil their appearance. (See figure 62.)
_,. Keep same face of board against fence when making
both cuts.
CROSSCUTTING
1. Sawing wood across the grain is known as "'crosscuffing".
(See figure 63.) Boards are milled with the grain running
the length of the board.
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