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TILLING TIPS & TECHNIQUES
Tilling Depths
• This is a CRT (counter-rotating tine) tiller. As the wheels pull
forward, the tines rotate backward. This creates an "uppercut" tine
action which digs deeply, uprooting soil and weeds. Don't over-
load the engine, but dig as deeply as possible on each pass. On
later passes, the wheels may tend to spin in the soft dirt. Help
them along by lifting up slightly on the handlebar (one hand, palm
up, works most easily).
• Avoid the temptation to push down on the handlebars in an
attempt to force the tiller to dig deeper. Doing so takes the weight
off the powered wheels, causing them to lose traction. Without the
wheels to hold the tiller back, the tines will attempt to propel the
tiller backward, towards the operator. (Sometimes, slight down-
ward pressure on the handlebars will help get through a particu-
larly tough section of sod or unbroken ground, but in most cases
this won't be necessary.)
Choosing Correct
Wheel and Tine Speeds
Set the engine throttle lever at a speed to give the engine adequate power and yet allow it to operate at the slowest possible speed...at least
until you have achieved the maximum tilling depth you desire. Faster engine speeds may be desirable when making final passes through
the seedbed or when cultivating. Selection of the correct engine speed, in relation to the tilling depth, will ensure a sufficient power level to
do the job without causing the engine to labor.
Let the Tiller Do the Work
While tilling, relax and let the wheels pull
the tiller along while the tines do the
digging. Walk on the side that is not yet
finished (to avoid making footprints in the
freshly tilled soil) and lightly, but securely
grip the handlebar with just one hand.
Preparing Seedbeds
• When preparing a seedbed, go over the same path twice in the first row, then
overlap one-half the tiller width on the rest of the passes (see Figure
4-6). When finished in one direction, make a second pass at a right angle as
shown in Figure 4-7. Overlap each pass for best results (in very hard ground,
it may take three or four passes to thoroughly pulverize the soil.)
• If the garden size will not
permit lengthwise and then
crosswise tilling, then overlap
the first passes by one-half a
tiller width, followed by succes-
sive passes at one-quarter
width (see Figure 4-8).
With experience, you will find the "just right" tilling depth and tilling speed combination that is best for
your garden.
Avoid Making Footprints
Whenever possible, walk on the untilled
side of the unit to avoid making footprints
in your freshly tilled or cultivated soil.
Footprints cause soil compaction that can
hamper root penetration and contribute to
soil erosion. They can also "plant"
unwanted weed seeds back into the
freshly tilled ground.
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3
Figure 4-8
• When cultivating (breaking up surface soil around plants to
destroy weeds, see Figure 4-9), adjust the tines to dig only
1" to 2" deep. Using shallow tilling depths helps prevent injury
to plants whose roots often grow close to the surface. If
needed, lift up on the handlebars slightly to prevent the tines
from digging too deeply. (Cultivating on a regular basis elimi-
nates weeds, and loosens and aerates the soil for better mois-
ture absorption and faster plant growth.)
• Watering the garden area a few days prior to tilling will make
tilling easier, as will letting the newly worked soil set for a day or
two before making a final, deep tilling pass.
Avoid Tilling Soggy, Wet Soil
Tilling wet soil often results in large, hard
clumps of soil that can interfere with plant-
ing. If time permits, wait a day or two after
heavy rains to allow the soil to dry before
tilling. Test soil by squeezing it into a ball.
If it compresses too easily, it is too wet to
till.
Figure 4-6
Cultivating
2
With planning, you can allow
enough room between rows to
cultivate (see Figure 4-9). Leave
room for the hood width,
plus enough extra room for
future plant growth.
Section 4: Operation
Figure 4-7
Figure 4-9
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