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Table of Contents
Related Manuals for NACIONAL MOTOR Derbi Euro 3
Summary of Contents for NACIONAL MOTOR Derbi Euro 3
- Page 1 moteur derbi euro 3 documentation atelier (EN ANGLAIS)
- Page 3 The intention is to provide as much assistance as possible to mechanics working for our brand’s dealers and sub-dealers. Due to its constant commitment to improving its products, DERBI - NACIONAL MOTOR, S.A. Sociedad Unipersonal reserves the right to introduce any modifications it deems fit, without prior warning.
- Page 5 GENERAL INFORMATION Page 4 ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER Page 5 GENERAL TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS Page 6 DISMANTLING THE CARBURETTOR Page 10 DISMANTLING/REASSEMBLING THE REED VALVES Page 14 DISMANTLING/REASSEMBLING THE COOLING SYSTEM Page 16 DISMANTLING/REASSEMBLING THE OIL PUMP Page 18 DIMANTLING/REASSEMBLING THE CYLINDER HEAD Page 20 DISMANTLING/REASSEMBLING THE CYLINDER AND PISTON Page 22...
- Page 6 SERVICE RULES SERVICE RULES - Use original DERBI parts or parts and lubricants recommended by DERBI. Parts that do not comply with DERBI design specifications may damage the moped (engine and/or machine). - Where indicated, use the special tools for this model. - Always use new seals and gaskets when refitting.
- Page 7 NGINE NUMBER The number is stamped onto the top of the left hand crank- case (next to the gearbox-clutch oil filler plug).
- Page 8 ENGINE Cycle Two stroke 39,88 x 40mm Diameter per stroke Number of cylinders One nickel and silicon carbide coated aluminium cylinder. Total cylinder capacity 49cc Maximum power Compression ratio 11,5:1 Fuel 95/98 octane lead free petrol (min. 95 octane) Inlet system Reed valve direct to the crankcase Electronic/Kick-start (depending on model) Starting system...
- Page 9 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Generator Alternator magneto Voltage /Generating power 12v / according to model Ignition type Ignition advance 1.2 mm. Before T.D.C. Spark plug gap See machine specifications table MAINTENANCE PROGRAMME KMS / MONTHS (whichever comes first) CHECKS 1000 / 2 5000 / 12 10000 / 24 15000 / 36...
- Page 10 TORQUE TIGHTENING TABLE TIGHTENING TORQUE TIGHTENING TORQUE SECURING DEVICE DESCRIPTION (N.m.) (m•kg) M1 4x125 spark plug-cylinder head securing device 20 ÷ 40 2 ÷ 4 M6x100 cylinder head cover-cylinder sec.dev. 8 ÷ 10 0,8 ÷ 1 M7x100 cylinder head nut sec.dev. 19 ÷...
- Page 11 SPECIAL USES NUMBER NAME REFERENCE Crankshaft oil seal fitting tool 00H05400451 Starter shaft oil seal fitting tool 00H05400581 Selector shaft oil seal fitting tool 00H05401561 Clutch bell housing securing tool 00H05300041 Primary shaft needle bush fitting tool 00H05600241 Engine opening pusher 00H05300151 GPR secondary shaft oil seal guide pivot 00H05600351...
- Page 12 ARBURETTOR ARBURETTOR - Loosen the clamps securing the carburettor to the inlet nozzle and the air filter nozzle. Disconnect the fuel, oil and fuel tap depressor pipes, and extract the carburettor. - Loosen the carburettor cover screw and dismantle it to- gether with the throttle cable assembly, gas valve and ta- pered dosage needle(1).
- Page 13 - Extract the screws from the carburettor bowl and extract the bowl itself, thereby gaining access to the bores: the maximum(1), minimum(2) and cold start bores, as well as the float and its needle valve. EASSEMBLING THE CARBURETTOR EASSEMBLING THE CARBURETTOR - Clean all the components of the carburettor with solvent (take care not to damage the carburettor bowl gasket or the cold start valve O-ring).
- Page 14 - Check the position of the tapered dosing needle. - Moving the circlip on the needle upwards results in a leaner mixture, and moving it downwards results in a ri- cher mixture. This allows adjustments to be made for ex- treme climatic conditions.
- Page 15 - Completely reassemble the carburettor. Refit the carbu- rettor to the engine, making sure to connect the fuel, oil and fuel tap depressor activation pipes properly. - Check that the idling circuit air quantity regulating screw (“compensator”) is in a similar position to that before dis- mantling (in case of doubt, consult the machine specifica- tions table to determine the factory set position).
- Page 16 ISMANTLING THE REED VALVE ISMANTLING THE REED VALVE - Remove the carburettor from the engine. - Extract the inlet nozzle closing bolts and the inlet nozzle. The reed valve can then be accessed and extracted - Check that there are no cracks, distortions or breakages on the reed petals.
- Page 17 ISMANTLING THE COOLING SYSTEM ISMANTLING THE COOLING SYSTEM - Completely drain the coolant from the engine by deta- ching the hoses connecting the pump to the radiator. - Drain the engine oil and extract the transmission cover. - Remove the bolts from the water pump cover and extract it. - Loosen the water pump runner securing nut and extract the latter by unscrewing it.
- Page 18 - Use tool number 13 (see special tools list) to insert the in- ner oil seal (4) with the spring downwards. Use tool num- ber 12 to fit the top oil seal (5) with the spring upwards. Both seals should be lightly greased. - Fit the 5.25 x 15 x 1 washer (6), the pump runner (7) and the securing nut (8).
- Page 19 7. Replenish the expansion tank with coolant until the minimum level is reached in the expansion tank (on warming up, the level will rise due to expansion in the circuit). 8. Check the electric circuit of the overheating warning indicator on the instrument panel, by disconnecting the temperature sensor connector and connecting its ter- minal to earth using a length of wire, and then turning on the ignition.
- Page 20 ISMANTLING THE OIL PUMP ISMANTLING THE OIL PUMP - Remove the inspection cover situated on the clutch half- housing. - Free the securing clamps on the pump input and output oil pipes. Plug the input pipe to prevent the oil tank from draining.
- Page 21 - The oil pump must then be bled in accordance with the following procedure: 1. Fit the pipe carrying oil from the tank to the pump. 2. With the aid of a syringe, fill the pump output pipe with synthetic 2-stroke API TC SAE 30 oil, and fit it bet- ween the pump and the carburettor.
- Page 22 ISMANTLING THE CYLINDER HEAD ISMANTLING THE CYLINDER HEAD - Drain the coolant by removing the hose fitted to the water pump. - Position a tray to collect it. - Extract the hose between the cylinder head and the ra- diator. - Disconnect the temperature sensor connector.
- Page 23 - Extract the cylinder head and its gasket on the cylinder. - Clean off gasket debris and carbonisation without scrat- ching or wearing down the surfaces. - With the aid of a straight ruler and a thickness calliper, check the mating surfaces – both on the cylinder head and the cylinder - for warping.
- Page 24 ISMANTLING THE CYLINDER AND PISTON ISMANTLING THE CYLINDER AND PISTON - Drain the coolant from the engine. - Remove the cylinder head cover and the cylinder head. - Extract the cylinder by pulling it upwards. - Remove the cylinder bottom gasket. - Inset a clean cloth into the crankcase opening to prevent objects from accidentally falling inside.
- Page 25 HECKING THE CYLINDER AND PISTON HECKING THE CYLINDER AND PISTON - Check the ring point gaps by inserting them lined up into the cylinder and checking the gap with a thickness calliper. Minimum limit: 0,15 mm. Maximum limit: 0,35 mm. - Check the degree of cylinder wear with the aid of an alexometer.
- Page 26 EFITTING THE CYLINDER AND PISTON EFITTING THE CYLINDER AND PISTON - Fit the piston rings. - Fit a new cylinder base gasket. - Fit the needle bearing cage, piston, gudgeon pin and circlips, lubricating these first with synthetic API TC SAE 30 oil.
- Page 27 ISMANTLING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY ISMANTLING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY - Drain the coolant from the engine. - Drain the oil from the transmission by removing the two plugs (clutch half-casing and crankcase base). - Extract the oil pump assembly together with its pipes and control cable.
- Page 28 - Extract the driven bell housing. - Pay attention to the centre bush and set of washers. - Extract the driving bell housing. - To untighten the balance shaft gear securing nut, on tho- se engines where it is fitted (1), as well as for the engine pinion nut (2), insert tool number 14.
- Page 29 HECKING THE PRIMARY TRANSMISSION HECKING THE PRIMARY TRANSMISSION - Make a visible check of the teeth. If there are thermal fatigue marks (discoloration), loss of surface hardness co- vering, or uneven wear to the teeth (points), replace the damaged components. - Check the driving clutch bell housing: 1.
- Page 30 - Check the free length of the spring, and renew it if it exceeds the service limit. Service limit: 31 mm. - With the aid of a set square, check the degree of spring parallelism. Renew it in the event of distortion. EFITTING THE CLUTCH C U C - Refit in the opposite order to dismantling.
- Page 31 - Fit the primary shaft washers and the driving and driven clutch bell housings. - Be sure to apply the specified tightening torque, both for the crankshaft gearing nut (1) (3.5 - 4.5 m.kg) and the clutch housing nut (2) (3.5 - 4.5 m.kg) (remember to fit a new tab washer (3) and to flatten it against one of the nut’s sides).
- Page 32 ISMANTLING THE CRANKSHAFT AND GEAR CHANGE ISMANTLING THE CRANKSHAFT AND GEAR CHANGE - Dismantle the thermodynamic unit (cylinder head, cylin- der and piston). - Dismantle the alternator magneto (see electrical system). - Completely dismantle the primary transmission assem- bly, including the starter system, gear selector shaft and balance shaft pinion.
- Page 33 - Rest the crankcase right side (primary transmission side) down on a wooden block. Fit tool number 6 to the left hand side of the crankcase and on the threads fitted for this purpose, and with its central acting shaft on the crankshaft, proceed with the separating of the crankca- ses.
- Page 34 - Clean and completely degrease the crankshaft assem- bly, and then examine it carefully. - With the aid of thickness callipers, check the side play of the connecting rod at its connection to the crankshaft crank. Service limit: 0,8 mm. -With the aid of a comparison meter, determine the radial clearance of the connecting rod big end bearing in direc- tions X and Y.
- Page 35 - In order to extract damaged bearings, use a specific extractor, preheating the crankcase (to approximately 90ºC). Never refit dismantled bearings, as these become damaged during the extraction operation. - To fit new bearings, preheat the crankcase (to approxi- mately 90ºC), and use a bearing that has just been remo- ved from a freezer.
- Page 36 - Continue with the complete dismantling of the seconda- ry assembly, extracting the assembly’s locking circlip and then dismantling the assembly completely in order (have a clean cloth ready on which to lay out the parts as they are detached). - Check that there is no burring and/or uneven wear to the nipples and the mounting holes of the movable gea- ring speed setting system, nor to its knurlings.
- Page 37 - Check the secondary shaft gear needle bearings in turn. If they are damaged, renew them. - Clean all the components of the gear change assembly and selector, as well as the crankshaft, with degreaser. - Refit the secondary gear change assembly, taking great care to ensure that all its components are reassembled co- rrectly, to prevent the assembly from malfunctioning and jamming.
- Page 38 - Fit the gear change assembly on to the right hand crank- case (insert the first and secondary assemblies together, interlocked. - Check previously the total thickness of the secondary gear change shaft including its adjusting washers on both sides. Total secondary thickness: MAX 87,700 mm.
- Page 39 - If the crankshaft fails to turn, this probably indicates that the crankshaft is not centred. Tap the appropriate end of the crankshaft lightly with a rubber mallet to return it to its correct position. - Turn the secondary shaft and select all the gears to ensu- re that there is no tightness and that all the gears change correctly.
- Page 40 ISMANTLING THE ALTERNATOR MAGNETO ISMANTLING THE ALTERNATOR MAGNETO - Remove the gear change lever and the alternator mag- neto closing cover on the left hand side of the engine. - Use tool number 9 to lock the magneto flywheel and then loosen the nut securing the magneto to the crankshaft.
- Page 41 - Carry out a static check of the unit as outlined below, with the aid of a multi-meter set to measure circuit/resistance (ohms: Ω), and selecting the appropriate scale depending on the level to be measured. Checking the wiring coil: CABLE COLOUR YELLOW WHITE...
- Page 42 - Should a fault occur, renew the whole component whe- re a problem has been found after inspecting up to this point. - Proceed with refitting the unit, paying special attention to the condition of the key on the end of the crankshaft. Renew it if any damage is observed.