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8.
Line up the holes in the yoke and the input shaft of the gear
box. Slide the yoke onto the shaft and secure together with a
5
roll pin and two
⁄
16
locknuts.
REPLACING THE DRIVE BELT (Fig 12–14)
The blade drive belt, tensioned by the spring-loaded idler pulley, is
very durable. However, after many hours of use, the belt will show
signs of wear. Signs of a worn belt are: squealing when the belt is
rotating, blades slipping when cutting grass, frayed edges, burn
marks and cracks. Replace the belt if any of these conditions are
evident.
1.
Lower the cutting unit to the shop floor. Remove the belt cov-
ers from the top of the cutting unit and set the covers aside.
2.
Unhook the spring from the idler arm bracket to release belt
tension. Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin securing the
idler arm bracket to the idler arm.
3.
Remove the capscrews and flange nuts securing the gear box
plate to the deck channels. Lift the gear box plate and the gear
box off the deck channels and lay them on top of the deck.
4.
Remove the old belt from around the spindle pulleys and
through the idler pulley assembly.
5.
Route the new belt around the spindle pulleys and through the
idler pulley assembly, as shown in Figure 13.
6.
Reposition the gear box plate on the deck while routing the
belt around the gear box pulley. Mount the gear box plate to
the deck with the capscrews and nuts you previously removed.
7.
Reinstall the idler arm bracket to the idler arm with a cotter pin
and clevis pin. Hook the spring onto the idler arm bracket. To
assure proper tension on the drive belt, extend the spring to a
length of 17.8 cm. If the spring is not extended to this length,
relocate the spring rod to a new mounting hole further away
from the belt.
8.
Reinstall the belt covers.
SERVICING THE FRONT BUSHINGS IN
THE CASTOR ARMS (Fig 15)
The castor arms have bushings pressed into the top and bottom of
3
-18 x 1-
⁄
inch long capscrews and
4
5
⁄
-18
16
1.
Front castor arm tube
2.
Bushings
Figure 15
17
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