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31. Install C6, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. (Polarity!)
32. Install C7, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor.
33. Install C3, even another 10uF electrolytic capacitor. (Need we remind
us about polarity)
34. Install C5, another 10uF electrolytic capacitor.
35. Install C8, just to throw you off, it's a .1uF ceramic capacitor. This is
the only capacitor where orientation does not matter.
36. Install C10, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. (Orientation!)
37. Install C12, even another 10uF electrolytic. This is getting a little dull
isn't it? Well don't let boredom mess you up, make sure to check polarity
of all your electrolytics up to and beyond this point.
38. Install C9, a 470uF electrolytic. This one is particularly important to
install correctly.
39. Install C11, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor.
40. Install C13, the LAST 10uF electrolytic capacitor. If we have to remind
you to check polarity again, then... Hmmm, I guess you know the
consequences!
41. Install D3, a 1N4002 type diode (black body with white stripe on one
end). This diode prevents you from inadvertently connecting external
power to the MX-5 while there is a battery installed, and trying to recharge
a battery. If this diode wasn't there, you would very quickly have a ruined
kit.
Now we will begin installing jacks, switches and plugs. Check your work up to
this point and make sure it is up to your critical standards. Check all solder
joints for cold connections or solder bridges. Especially check between the
leads of the capacitors for stray bits of solder shorting the pins together. Also
go back and check the orientation of all the parts in your kit up to this point.
42. Install J1, an RCA type jack.
43. Install J2, another RCA jack.
44. Install J4, an RCA jack.
45. Install J6, even another RCA jack.
46. Install J8, the 3/8" microphone jack.
MX-5 Page 12
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