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The GTS has the industry-standard receiver input connector on a
user-replaceable input harness & works with all major radio brand's
new receivers. However, some very old receivers must have the
wiring sequence in the plastic 3-pin connector housing changed.
This is important, because receiver & servo electronics
may be damaged if the sequence is incorrect.
JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z
JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, & Airtronics Z receivers do not need input
harness re-wiring. Airtronics Z receivers have blue plastic cases & new
KO cases have tabs on the input harness openings as in Figure 1.
• Plug one end of the input harness into the
THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2)
receiver with the BLACK wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of the input harness into 3-pin header inside
the ESC's case with the BLACK wire toward the left edge of the
ESC's case & the WHITE wire toward the middle of the ESC's case.
input harness
opening
white wire
black wire
– +
S
toward edge
of case
New KO (with tabs)
Old KO (no tabs)
no tabs
tabs
white
white
red
black
black
red
Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics
If your receiver is an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must change
the sequence of the ESC's input harness wires.
Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases are black in color & Old KO cases do not
have the tab openings, as in Figure 2 above.
• Using a small standard/flat blade screwdriver, remove the red and
black wires from the plastic 3-pin connector housing at the receiver
end of the input harness as in Figure 3 below.
• Interchange the red and black wires in the plastic 3-pin connector
housing at the receiver end of the input harness.
• Insert modified 3-pin end of the harness into the receiver with the
RED wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
FIGURE 3
With a small standard screwdriver, gently lift plastic prong
until wire and metal socket easily slide out of plastic housing.
If using an external receiver battery pack with the GTS:
1. Plug an external 5 cell (1.2VDC/cell) receiver battery pack into
the battery slot of the receiver.
2. Leave the GTS's ON/OFF switch in the OFF position, and use
receiver battery pack's ON/OFF switch to turn the system power
on and off––Do not use the GTS's switch.
1. MOTOR CAPACITORS
Electric motors generate RF noise that causes interference. The
included 0.1 F (50V) non-polarized, ceramic capacitors must be
used on all motors to reduce motor noise & prevent ESC damage.
Note: Some motors come with capacitors built-in. If your motor
only has two capacitors, you need to install a capacitor between
the positive & negative motor tabs––If you experience radio inter-
ference when using only built-in capacitors, install external ones.
Solder 0.1 F (50V) capacitors between:
• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
• NEGATIVE (–) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
*If motor has no ground tab (below), solder the capacitors to motor can.
of
Extra 0.1 F capacitors are available in Novak kit #5620.
2. INSTALLING OPTIONAL SCHOTTKY DIODE
The GTS has a built-in Schottky diode and should not require an
external one under standard conditions. The external Schottky
toward
middle of
will optimize the ESC's braking and motor performance in racing
ESC
applications with heavy or repeated braking (lap after lap), or
when using low-turn modified motors.
• If using a Schottky diode with axial leads like shown in the photo
above
(older Novak style--35V/8A minimum)
CLOSEST to the silver stripe on the body of the Schottky diode
to the POSITIVE (+) motor tab. Solder the lead OPPOSITE the
silver stripe on the body to the NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
• If using the Novak Racing Schottky Motor Module
perfoming Schottky diode available)
, solder the red wire from the
module to the POSITIVE (+) motor tab. Solder the black wire
from the Schottky module to the NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
If Schottky diode is installed backwards it will be destroyed. Replace
only with Schottky diodes with a minimum rating of 35 volts/8 amps.
Racing Schottky Motor Modules are available in Novak kit #5636.
FIGURE 5: SET-UP PHOTO
(in-line 'single wire method' of red wire shown)
Trail excess wire off
top of antenna mast
Three
Red power wire
0.1 F (50V)
(battery &
ceramic
motor positive)
capacitors
(+)
(+)
(–)
insulate exposed
wiring & leads
Blue power wire
(motor negative)
Power Capacitor
(tape or tie-wrap to chassis)
status LEDs
optional
Racing Schottky Motor Module
One-Touch/"SET"
(tape to chassis)
programming button
P2
To get the best possible performance from your GTS, it is essential
that you make very good connections between the battery, speed
control, & motor. A common cause of perfomance problems & ESC
failures is poor solder joints--If you have any doubts about your soldering
skills, we suggest seeking assistance at your local hobby shop or track.
• Keep the ESC and its power wires away from other electronics
in the vehicle, especially the receiver & antenna.
• Do not bundle receiver/signal wires with other wires--messy
installations account for nearly all radio interference (glitching)
problems. A clean looking install almost always works better.
• Route ESC wires to clear any moving parts in the vehicle.
• Airflow through the ESC's heat sink is a huge performance plus.
Like a real car, cooling is everything--if you can mount the ESC
where it will see some air flow, it will run cooler; and that means
Negative (–) motor tab
that the ESC will be even more efficient (and make you faster!).
0.1 F Capacitors
Schottky diode
Once you've decided where to put the GTS in the vehicle, it's time for
Positive (+) motor tab
some wiring. The GTS uses a high-performance 3-wire system where
the battery & motor share the same red wire. You can direct solder
Ground / motor can
your system for the least amount of resistance (this method will require
soldering/desoldering battery pack each run), or you can use battery &
motor connectors as discussed at the end of this section.
1. PREP & SOLDER SPEED CONTROL'S RED WIRE
Depending on your vehicle's configuration, there are two main ways that
you can make the red wire connections--making a "Y"
red wire to go to the motor & battery, or a single wire set-up where the red
wire goes to the battery and then continues on to the motor
, solder the lead
Position the GTS where it will be mounted, strip a 1/4-3/8" section
of insulation from the mid-section of its red wire where you will
solder it to positive
the middle)
. Tin the exposed section of wire with solder.
(this is the best
Solder the exposed section of wire to positive
or the positive
(+)
Cut the GTS's red wire
so it will reach the final component
and strip 1/8-1/4" of insulation off the end. Twist & tin the wire.
Solder the tinned end of the GTS's red wire to the final
component--battery positive
Keep receiver & antenna as
far from motor, servo, battery,
& power wires as possible.
4 to 7 cell
ON/OFF switch
screwed to chassis
battery pack
(–)
Black power wire
(battery negative)
User-replaceable
input harness
The GTS comes with factory-installed power Capacitor that drops ESC operating temperatures by
10-15 F (remember, cooler means your GTS will be more efficient & faster) and dissipates noise &
voltage spikes from the ESC's high switching speed that gives the GTS its smooth throttle response.
You MUST use Novak Power Capacitors--other capacitors with similar ratings don't provide the
ON/OFF switch
same protection. We've done extensive research to find capacitors with the very best quality factors.
(screw or tape to chassis)
continued –>
Strip a 1/4-3/8" section of insulation from the mid-section of the
GTS's red wire where you want to split and go to the motor &
battery. Tin the exposed section of wire with solder.
Strip a 1/4" of insulation off the one end of the extra piece of red
wire that came with the GTS. Twist & tin the wire.
Slide the supplied piece of heat shrink tubing over the red wire
coming from the GTS, and slide it all the way to the ESC.
Solder the tinned end of the extra piece of red wire to the tinned
section along the GTS's red wire & shrink the tubing over the solder
joint with a heat gun
Cut one end of the GTS's red wire
length so it will reach the positive
1/8-1/4" of insulation off the end. Twist & tin the wire.
Solder this end of the GTS's red wire to the positive
Cut the other end of the GTS's red wire to the proper length so it
will reach battery pack positive
off the end. Twist & tin the wire.
Solder this end of the GTS's red wire to battery positive
2. PREP & SOLDER GTS'S BLUE & BLACK WIRES
Cut the end of the GTS's blue wire to the proper length so it will
reach the negative
insulation off the end. Twist & tin the wire.
Solder the end of the GTS's blue wire to motor negative
(or "T")
out of the
Cut the end of the GTS's black wire to the proper length so it will
reach battery pack negative
.
(or vice versa)
off the end. Twist & tin the wire.
Solder the end of the GTS's black wire to battery negative
charged 4 to 7 cell pack.
TIP: Twisting BLUE & RED wires once or twice around each other as they
(+)
of the motor or battery
(component that is in
tab of the motor
(+)
end of the battery pack
.
[see Figure 5: Set-Up Photo]
(after the first connection)
to the proper length
Battery & motor connectors can be used for making your connections.
(battery positive or motor positive)
If you are going to use connectors for your battery and/or motor, we
suggest the Dean's Ultra Connectors--do not use crimp on types.
(+)
or positive
(+)
tab of the motor.
When using battery and motor connectors, please note the following:
• If you have any doubts about your soldering skills, seek assistance
from your local hobby shop or track, or see our website for tips.
FIGURE 6: 'Y' METHOD OF WIRING
• Use connectors that cannot be plugged in backwards--reverse
voltage will damage the GTS and void the warranty.
• Use a female connector on battery packs to avoid shorting.
• If using connectors for both battery & motor leads, use a male
connector on the GTS's battery lead and a female on the GTS's
motor lead to prevent cross connection
For additional information on connector usage, visit our website.
Optional large Power
heat shrink all
'Y' in red wire
Cap taped to chassis
exposed wiring
When replacing the battery or motor power wires at the GTS's solder
tabs, it's important to not overheat PCB
soldering iron by applying prolonged or excessive heating.
• Remove wires from the tab by first removing GTS from vehicle to
access solder joints on the bottom of the tabs. Use a soldering iron
to apply heat to the wire's solder joint while gently pulling on the
wire to remove it from the hole in the PC Board.
• Replace the wires by stripping 1/8-1/4" of insulation from the end
of the new wire. Tightly twist the wire strands and lightly tin with
solder. Insert the wire end into the proper hole in the PC Board
there is still solder in the hole you can melt it with the iron while pushing the
wire through the hole)
through the tab's hole, and add solder to the tip of the soldering
iron and to the wire. Add just enough solder to form a clean &
continuous joint from the plated area of the solder tab up onto the
wire. Use side cutters to trim excess wire above tab
P3
(Figure 6)
(a lighter or match also works well)
.
(after the "Y")
to the proper
tab of the motor and strip
(+)
motor tab.
(+)
(+)
and strip 1/8-1/4" of insulation
.
(+)
( – )
tab of the motor and strip 1/8-1/4" of
(–)
.
( – )
and strip 1/8-1/4" of insulation
( – )
of a
go to the motor helps reduce RF noise emitted from power wires.
.
(also voids warranty)
with the
(printed ciruit board)
. Apply heat to the section of wire that is sticking
(about 1/16")
(if
.
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