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SWITCH
The Variable Speed Trigger Switch permits "FREE HAND" speed control—the farther the trigger
is depressed, the higher the R.P.M. of the Drill. A Switch
Locking Button permits locking the
trigger in the full "ON" position for continuous operation, or when using the Drill in a Vertical
Stand. To lock the trigger "ON," depress trigger fully and push in locking button, then gently
release trigger. To release locking mechanism, depress trigger fully, then release it.
NOTE: Use lower speeds for STARTING HOLES WITHOUT A CENTER PUNCH, DRILLING IN METAL
OR PLASTICS, DRIVING SCREWS, DRILLING CERAMICS, OR MIXING PAINT. Higher speeds are
better for
DRILLING
WOOD
AND
COMPOSITION
BOARDS,
AND
FOR
USING
ABRASIVE
AND
POLISHING ACCESSORIES.
CABLE
The cable is the life-line of your tool. Keep it clean
by
wiping occasionally to remove any grease
or oil. Don't let it become kinked. Avoid dragging it across sharp surfaces. Do not lift the tool
by the cable.
When using the tool at a considerable distance
from
power source, a properly grounded ex¬
tension cable of adequate size must be used
to
prevent loss of
power and
over-heating.
Use table at right for 115 Volt tools. For 220
tools, use wire size of V
2
the contemplated
cable length.
Ext. cable length
in feet .25
50
75 100 150 200
Required wire size
(A.W.G.) in cable..18
18
18
18
16
16
DRILLING
INSERTING DRILL BIT IN CHUCK
Turn collar to open chuck jaws. Place bit in
chuck so that end
rests on chuck bottom.
Tighten chuck collar by hand. Place chuck key
in each of the three holes, and tighten in
clockwise direction. It's important to tighten
chuck with all three holes. This is a safety
feature that prevents bit slippage and motor
damage. To release bit, turn
chuck
key counter¬
clockwise in just one hole, then loosen
chuck
by hand.
STARTING THE HOLE — WITH A VARIABLE SPEED DRILL, using a slow speed will enable you to
start the hole accurately in most cases without the need for center punching.
CARE IN DRILLING
Twist drills are brittle and will
break if enough bending stress
it applied. To avoid stress on
the drill bit, try extending your
index finger along the side of
the drill-housing with your mid¬
dle finger on the trigger.
Re¬
member— guide, the tool, don't
force
it!
Should
the
tool
be¬
come
overheated,
run
it with
no load. Because of the drill's
construction, it will cool faster
running than by stopping it.
DRILLING IN METAL
Use a cutting lubricant when
drilling
metals.
The
excep¬
tions are iron and brass which
should
be
drilled
dry.
The
cutting lubricants that work
best
are sulphurized cutting
oil or lard oil; bacon grease
will also serve the purpose.
Aluminum is best drilled with
turpentine or kerosene.
DRILLING IN WOOD
Holes
in
wood
can
be
made
with the same twist drills used
for
metal.
These
bits
may
overfieat
unless
pulled
out
frequently to clear chips from
the flutes. Work that is apt to
splinter should
be
backed
up
with a block of wood.
Let up
on the pressure just before the
tip cuts through, this will give
a
good
clean
hole.
TO REMOVE THE CHUCK—Place the chuck key in one
of
the holes in the chuck. Strike the key
sharply with a piece of wood in the direction that the chuck normally rotates. This will loosen the
chuck so that it can be unscrewed
by
hand.
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