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Maintenance continued-
To inspect or replace an anode:
The anodes on this water heater are easily accessible from the top of
the heater making replacement simple and quick.
a. Turn the water heater electricity OFF for the zone containing
the indirect-fired heater. Flow water until the discharge is cool
or allow enough time for the potable water to cool naturally.
Connect a hose to the drain valve. Locate the hose's
discharge in an area where any remaining hot water will not
cause any damage or injury.
b. Open the drain valve to flush any sediment out of the bottom
to the heater.
c. Shut OFF the cold water supply. Make sure all hot water
fixtures and circulating pumps are turned OFF.
d. Wait for water flow from the hose to stop. Remove the anode
using a socket of the appropriate size. Do NOT use an impact
wrench.
e. Inspect and replace the anode as required. Use pipe tape or
sealant when reinstalling the anode.
f.
Close the drain valve. Open a hot water fixture to allow air to
escape. Open the cold water supply to the heater and allow
the tank to fill.
g. Check your anode and drain valve for leaks.
h. Turn the water heater electricity ON for the zone containing
the indirect-fired heater.
4. Sediment (Annual, but harsh water quality may dictate more
frequent service) – Depending on water conditions, a varying
amount of sediment may collect in the tank. Levels requiring
service are indicated by a small temperature difference in the
supply and return lines (see also "Scale" below). Repeated
flushing usually clears such material. As a preventive measure,
water should be drawn from the tank at the drain valve until it
runs clear.
5. Scale (Annual) – Hard water may cause scale to build-up on the
outside of the heat exchanger coil. A water softener will prevent
this problem (see also "Sediment" above). Symptoms would be
reduced recovery capacity or reduced temperature differential
between boiler supply and return lines. Repeated flushing should
resolve the problem.
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