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"IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS" When using overlock machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using this overlock machine. DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock. 1. The overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this overlock ma- chine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
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Congratulations on Choosing baby lock enspire You are now entering an exciting new era in sewing. As a baby lock enspire owner, you are open- ing the door to more creative sewing adventures and a new ease in serger sewing.
Serging is kind of a knitting process that loops two, three or four threads together to create a stitch. Your baby lock enspire operates with one or two needles and one or two "loopers," each carrying a thread to form the overlock stitch.
Accessories Your baby lock enspire serger has a built-in accessory compartment. To open, swing the "lid" on the thread spoolstand to the right to reveal the tray holding some of the accessories listed below. Others may be found in the machine packing materials.
Needles Your baby lock enspire serger is set up with 75/11 machine needles, which are suitable for most medium and lightweight fabrics. For heavyweight fabrics, change to a size 90/14 needle. The needle's semi-ball point design is suitable for knits and wovens. Some manufacturers' needles may produce better quality stitches with your baby lock than others.
Setting Up Your enspire After removing the packing materials from the box, gently lift your baby lock serger by gasping the handle provided on the top of the machine. Place the machine on a serger sewing table or any level surface that provides ample work area to the left of the machine. Place the foot control in a pedal stay, if desired, and place it under the sewing table.
Cutting Blade Locking Dial When no trimming is desired, as when stitching on a fold, flip the cutting blade lock switch clockwise to the LOCK position. The cutting blade no longer moves up and down, but remains in its lowered position. To re-engage the cut- ting blade, turn the cutting blade lock switch half of a turn counter-clockwise.
Stitch Length/Rolled Hem The stitch length / rolled hem adjusting dial is conveniently located just to the left of the front cover, near the base plate. (fig. A) The dial shows two stitch-length ranges, from 0,75, for the shortest stitch, to 4 for the longest. (fig.C) As the dial in- dicates, one range is for standard sewing and one is for rolled edging or narrow seaming.
Differential Feed Your baby lock serger is equipped with differential feed. The set of feed dogs work independently in order to ensure smooth sewing on all fabrics. (fig. A) When the differential feed adjusting lever, located at the machine's right, front edge is set on "N" for normal feeding, the feed dogs move the same distance.
2-Thread Subsidiary Looper Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread overlock sewing. To engage the subsidiary looper 1. Open the front cover and the blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading port. (fig. A) Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot.
Threading Preperation When using threads on cones or king spools place the cone or spool securely over the cone holders furnished on your machine. To avoid bending the thread stand, you may need to place one hand under the stand while positioning the cone. The cone holders prevent the cone or spool from spinning, enabling the thread to feed evenly.
Threading Your enspire Your baby lock enspire is equipped with an exclusive "Instant Jet-Air Threading System" for fast, easy threading of the upper and lower loopers. One push of the "Jet-Air" threading lever will automatically thread the loopers. It is no longer nec- essary to use tweezers for threading the thread guides.
Upper Looper 1. With the presser foot up and machine lock button in the locked position (see fig. A-B, page 14), set the looper threader selector lever to "U" for upper looper threading. (See fig. B, page 14) 2. Place the thread cone or spool on the second spool pin from the front on the right side of the thread stand.
Right Needle 1. Turn the handwheel and line up the green marks on the machine and the handwheel. Set the needle threader selector on "R" for right needle. (fig. A page 17) 2. Place the thread on the second from left spool pin on the thread stand. (fig.A) Thread needle thread guides 1 and 2, through the groove on the face plate and through guides 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7.
Left Needle 1. Turn the handwheel to line up the green marks on the machine and handwheel. Set the needle threader selector on "L" for left needle. 2. Place the thread on the far-left spool pin on the thread stand. (fig. A page 16) Thread needle thread guides A and B, through the groove on the face plate and through guides C, D, E, and F.
Tension Adjustment Your baby lock's thread tension is preset at the factory for standard thread and fabric. But the tensions will require adjustment at times, depending on the thread and fabric being used and the stitch to be formed. Refer to the tension chart on the inside back cover. Also, study the diagrams that accompany the explanation of each stitch type.
Serging with fabric With the needle and upper looper threads under the foot and to the back, lower the presser foot. While holding the threads in your left hand, press down on the foot controller gently to begin a thread chain before serging fabric. (fig. A) You can leave the presser foot down for most serging applica- tions.
Close the front cover and sew a test sample. Refer to page 14-15 for further information. Note: When re-threading your baby lock enspire using the "Jet-Air Threading" feature, make sure that the previous thread that was in the looper (tube) is completely removed. This will...
4-Thread Overedging Overedging to finish facings, hems and seams before construction, is one of the most basic uses of a serger, such as making a garment or project with 5/8 inch (16mm) pressed open seams. (fig. A) To overedge, place the single layer of fabric in front of the presser foot, aligning the cut edge with upper cutting blade.
4-Thread Overlock Your baby lock enspire comes to you set for 4-thread serging, which provides a very durable, yet fully stretchable, seam or edge finish on all kinds of fabrics. With tensions properly set, the upper and lower looper threads lock together evenly over the cut fabric edge(s) to form a flat, non-rolling pattern of overlocking stitches on both sides of the fabric.
3-Thread Overlock 3-thread serging works well - and conserves thread - for edge-finishing most wovens and for seaming knits that don't require the extra durability that a fourth thread provides. It's easy to convert your enspire to serge with 3 threads by simply eliminating either needle.
Rolled Edging The rolled edge setting is used to achieve the narrowest stitch possible (1,5mm) on your baby lock serger. The stitch is suitable for seaming sheer and lightweight fabrics and for edging and hemming lightweight fabrics. 3-Thread Rolled Edge 1.
Seaming Sheers Use the 3-thread rolled hem setting when sewing sheer fabrics that otherwise would require French seams. Set the stitch length at 2,5. Then simply sew the seams, aligning the fabric edges with the serger seam guide, trimming away the excess seam allowance. Lettuce Edge A frilly or "lettuce"...
2-Thread Overlock The 2-thread function provides an economical and less bulky means of overedging all fabrics. When joining two fabrics together with 2-thread, the seam it forms is not standard overlock seam but a flatlock seam. 2-thread rolled edge creates a delicate finish on fine wovens and smooth silkies. When sewn with specialty threads, 2-thread serging makes decorative seams and edges for active- wear, children's clothing, ruffles and hemlines.
Flatlock Seams FIatlock seams are most suited to fabrics which do not rav- el - interlock knits, tricot, sweatshirt fleece and synthetic suede. The serged edges pull open and flatten within the stitch for a non-bulky join. (fig. A) Be sure to sew a test sample first to determine whether the stitch will have the strength to hold the seam without the fabric pulling away.
Flatlock "Topstitching" The flatlock stitch need not be limited at seamlines. When sewn on a fold, flatlocking can create attrac- tive decorative effects within the body of a garment or project. Either follow placement lines on your pattern or design your own special effects by stitching the fabric before laying out pattern pieces.
Blind Hemming You baby lock enspire can create a sturdy, nearly invisible blindhem. 1. Set the machine for 2-Thread Overlock with the right needle threaded. Set the stitch width at 5,0 and the stitch length at 4,0 in the standard range.
2-Thread Rolled Edge The 2-thread version of the rolled edge is often pre- Perfect seam ferred for hemming very soft fabrics which might be- come too stiff if sewn with three threads. 1. Clear the stitch fingers and adjust the stitch width Wrong Right Needle side...
Returning to 3 or 4-Thread Overlock 1. Open the front cover and rotate the handwheel coun- terclockwise to bring the needle clamp to its highest position. 2. Slide the subsidiary looper to the left direction and swing it clockwise to the right. 3.
Securing Ends The serger stitch will not unravel readily, and in most cases serged seams are secured by an intersecting seam. If that's not the case, these are several options for securing seam. (fig. A) 1. Leave a 3 inch (7,5cm) chain, separate the threads and tie a knot.
Securing Ends (Cont.) To lock the end of the seam: 1. Take one stitch off the end of the seam. (fig. F) 2. Raise the presser foot and bring the needle(s) to the highet position. Pull back gently on the fabric to clear the stitch fingers.
Turning Outside Corners 1. Stitch along one edge until you reach the corner. Take one stitch off the edge of the fabric. (fig. A) (As you approach the edge, you may want to stop and manually turn the handwheel towards you.) 2.
Serging Curves To serge around inside or outside curves, guide the fabric into the cutting blade, not the needle(s). Remember, cutting takes place before the fabric reaches the needle. Because the long serger presser foot holds the fabric more securely, you may need to raise and lower the presser foot several times to maneuver around very tight curves.
Using Specialty Threads Beautiful stitches can be formed by serging with specialty threads, cords and ribbons. These heavier or shinier threads can be used to enhance appearance, add strength or elasticity, or cre- ate special effects, depending on the thread you choose. Some specialty threads work well through the needle and loopers.
Thread Cradle for Loopers 1. Open the front cover and raise the presser foot. 2. At the threading port, clip the looper thread that is to be re- placed. (fig. A) Remove thread from under the foot and the upper thread guides. Replace cone of thread with specialty thread.
Looper Threading Tool 1. Open the front cover and raise the presser foot. 2. At the threading port, cut the looper thread that is to be replaced. Remove thread from under the foot and the up- per thread guides. Replace cone of thread with specialty thread.
Bypassing the Threading Port Heavy weight threads can be used through your regu- lar looper thread paths. Specific techniques may require that the thread bypass the thread port for the thread pull to be loosened. Start with the machine threaded with regular serger thread.
Specialty Thread Guide Chart Topstitching Woolly Nylon Machine Embroidery Buttonhole Twist Thread Metallic Threads APPLICATION Edging or flatlock Soft stretchy seams on Decorative edges for seaming for sportswear lingerie, swimwear, clothing, gift items, and home décor items. active wear, and for home décor, etc.
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Specialty Thread Guide Chart Clear Nylon Machine Embroidery Designer 6 Monofilament Threads: Rayon and Pearl Crown Rayon Polyester, 30, 40, 50 Candlelight weight. Jeans Stitch Lingerie Thread Ribbon Thread APPLICATION Techniques Lingerie and lightweight Decorative edging, requiring the thread fabrics, edging of fine flatlocking, rolled to be invisible such as fabrics, delicate rolled...
The lower fixed blade is made of a special long lasting steel and does not require frequent replacement. If necessary, contact your nearest baby lock retailer for replacement of this blade. The upper moving blade is made of a softer steel material and will require replacement.
Cleaning Your baby lock will operate at best performance if it is kept clean at all times. The serger's cutting action creates much more lint than you will find on conventional sewing machine. Your serger's major moving parts are well protected and do not need to be oiled.
Troubleshooting Before taking your machine in for service, check the following: Machine fails to start: 1. Are electrical plugs properly connected? 2. Is the power switch on? 3. Check household circuit breaker or fuse. 4. Is the lock button release lever in the unlocked position? Thread breaks: 1.
Troubleshooting Continued Needle threading difficulties: 1. Is the needle threader selector at the appropriate setting? ("R" for right needle, "L" for left nee- dle.) 2. Is the green mark on the handwheel lined up on the machine? Looper threading difficulties: 1.