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Stitch Samples And Needle Chart; Stitch Samples; Thread Tension - Brother 884-639 Operation Manual

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Stitch Samples and Needle Chart

Stitch Samples

Set stitch length regulator to
1
desired stitch length.
Make sure approximately 15 cm
2
of upper thread is pulled out and
laying behind presser foot. While
needle is in raised position,
insert a test strip from the
garment fabric under the foot.
Lower presser foot.
3
Turn the hand wheel forward to
4
lower the needle through the
fabric, then step gently on the
foot controller to begin.
Turn the hand wheel towards you
5
to raise the needle and thread
take-up lever to their highest
positions.
Lift presser foot, remove fabric
6
and then manually cut the
thread with the cutter on the left
side of the head of the machine
or with a pair of scissors.
When using thread cutter:
5 Press the thread cutter button
while the presser foot lever in the
down position.
6 Lift foot and remove fabric.
16

Thread Tension

Correct thread tension
Fabric
Right side of Fabric
Upper
Thread
Bobbin tension . . .
Lower
Thread
Right side of Fabric
Incorrect thread tension can lead
to such undesirable results as
messy stitches, puckered seams
and thread breakage.
Bobbin tension . . .
Selecting the proper needle for use with the fabric and thread you are working with
The following chart applies to many different fabric, thread and needle combinations.
Fabric - Thread - Needles
Cloth
Specialty
Velvet
Silk, Polyester #30 – #50
fabrics
Quilt
Polyester #20 – #50
Synthetic Suede
Polyester #20 – #50
Knit
Polyester #20 – #50
Coating
Polyester #50
Light
Lawn
Cotton #80
Tricot
Polyester #60
weight
Silk Georgette
Silk #50
fabrics
Wool Georgette
Silk, Polyester #50
Middle
Gingham
Cotton #60 – #80
Lightweight Jersey
Polyester #60
weight
Gabardine, Flannel
Silk #50
fabrics
Heavy
Denim
Cotton #20 – #50
weight
Jersey
Polyester #20 – #50
Tweed
Silk #20 – #50
fabrics
HLX5 needles are recommended; however, Schmetz 130/705H needles may
also be used under normal sewing conditions.
Adjust the pressure adjustment dial and the feed dog adjustment knob
according to the chart on the sewing machine.
When sewing on knit fabrics such as jersey or tricot, use a ballpoint needle
or a needle designed for use with knit fabrics.
Bobbin thread should feed smoothly. Adjust bobbin
thread to match that of upper thread. (If bobbin
thread is too tight it may cause fabric to bunch up.)
Wrong side of fabric
to increase
needle
Lower
thread
Thread
tension
to reduce
bobbin
Upper
tension
Thread
Proper
When it is strong
Wrong side of fabric
to reduce
needle
Lower
thread
Thread
tension
to increase
Upper
bobbin
Thread
tension
Proper
When it is week
HLX5
Thread
Needle (HLX5)
#11 – #14
#9
#11 – #16
#11
#14
#16
#11 – #14
#18
#9
#11
#11 – #14
#11
#14 – #18
#11 – #16
Schmetz
130/705H
#65
#75
#90
#100
#110

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