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Troubleshooting - Kenmore 10662154900 Use & Care Manual

Top-mount refrigerator
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TROUBLESHOOTING
Try the solutions suggested here first in order to avoid the cost of an unnecessary service call.
Your refrigerator will not operate
Electrical Shock Hazard
Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
Do not remove ground prong.
Do not use an adapter.
Do not use an extension cord.
Failure to follow these instructions can result in death,
fire, or electrical shock.
Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded
3 prong outlet.
Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker
tripped? Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the
problem continues, call an electrician.
Is the Temperature
Control turned to the OFF position?
See "Using the Control(s)."
Is the refrigerator
defrosting?
Recheck to see whether the
refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes. Your refrigerator will
regularly run an automatic defrost cycle.
The lights do not work
Is a light bulb loose in the socket or burned out? See
"Changing the Light Bulbs."
There is water in the defrost drain pan
Is the refrigerator defrosting? The water will evaporate. It is
normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
Is it more humid than normal? Expect that the water in the
defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when
it is hot or humid.
The motor seems to run too much
Is the room temperature
hotter than normal? Expect the
motor to run longer under warm conditions.
At normal room
temperatures,
expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of
the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even
more of the time.
Has a large amount of food just been added to the
refrigerator? Adding a large amount of food warms the
refrigerator. It is normal for the motor to run longer in order to
cool the refrigerator back down. See "Refrigerator
Features."
Are the doors opened often? Expect the motor to run longer
when this occurs. In order to conserve energy, try to get
everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food
organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as
the food is removed.
Is the control set correctly for the surrounding
conditions? See "Using the Control(s)," depending on the
model.
Are the doors closed completely? Push the doors firmly
shut. If they will not shut all the way, see "The doors will not
close completely"
later in this section.
NOTE: Your new refrigerator will run longer than your old one due
to its high-efficiency
motor.
The refrigerator
seems
to make too much noise
The sounds may be normal for your refrigerator.
See
"Normal Sounds."
The ice maker is not producing
ice or not enough ice
Has the ice maker just been installed? Wait 72 hours for full
ice production to begin. Once your refrigerator is cooled, the
ice maker should produce 70 to 120 cubes every 24 hours.
Is the freezer temperature
cold enough to produce
ice?
Wait 24 hours after hookup for ice production.
See "Using the
Control(s)," depending on the model.
Is the wire shutoff arm in the OFF (arm up) position?
Lower the wire shutoff arm to the ON (arm down) position.
See "Ice Maker."
Is the water line shutoff valve to the refrigerator turned
on? Turn on the water valve. See "Connect the Water
Supply."
Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice
been produced?
Be sure your refrigerator has been
connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve is
turned on. See "Connect the Water Supply."
Is an ice cube jammed in the ejector
arm? Remove the ice
from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. See "Ice Maker."
17

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