Remove the two screws that connect the upper fairing to the front of the gas
tank, and the two screws that connect the fairing insert pieces to the front of the
gas tank.
Remove the throttle cable from the twist grip (remove the small cover that the
cable goes into).
Remove the fast idle cable from the fast idle lever (pry off the "choke" cover, and
unscrew the large screw).
Remove the short throttle cables from the pulleys on the throttle bodies and
unscrew the adjusters from the throttle bodies.
Unplug the gas tank connector from the wiring harness, and remove the
connector from the tab on the frame.
Snip the cable ties that hold the fast idle cable and the throttle cable - there are
several.
Pull the right hand short throttle cable so it comes out _under_ the crankcase
ventilation hose. Remember when you put things back together that it goes
_over_ the hose.
Pull the throttle cable out also under the crankcase ventilation hose.
Note where the left side cables exit the bike.
Now remove the cable junction block. This is the small plastic piece that the
cables disappear in to. Removal is done from the right side of the bike. There is a
clip on the underside of the block, which must be held down while the block is
pulled out. I had to slightly bend the tab that holds the fuel tank electrical
connector up so that the cable junction block would clear it on the way out. Then
I was able to wiggle the cable junction block out underneath the crankcase
ventilation hose.
Note: the manual says to remove the engine block end of the crankcase
ventilation hose. I was able to leave this attached. The hose clamps are the use
once kind that require special pliers to replace, and there is very little room to use
a screw type hose clamp. Don't remove this hose unless you really have to. If
you have a tip here, I'd like to hear it.
With the cable junction block out, it should be clear how to replace the throttle
and fast idle cables.
The crank wheel is held in place with an E clip; remove the clip and you can take
the crank wheel out. Now you can clearly see the sliding ramp that needs
lubrication. Any kind of grease should work fine for this application.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly (I always enjoy reading that). Don't forget
the cable ties. You will also have to do a complete throttle body sync when
you've got it all assembled. You should not have to readjust the TPS.
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