Table of Contents Page # 1. Service Manual Overview ................3 2. Product Introduction Wireless: (DR & WR) ................5 3. Troubleshooting (at panel, at EQD, site inspection) Wireless: (DR & WR) ................6 Site Survey (Panel) ................6 Supply Voltage Checks ..............7 Buck Boost Transformer ..............7 Operating Voltage Checks ..............9 Continuity Test...................10 Megohm / Insulation Integrity Test ...........12...
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8. Top Housing Removal and Installation a. Top Housing Removal and Installation (DR, DH or DX) ....37 Top Housing Removal ...............37 Discharge Tube Removal ..............38 Top Housing Reassembly and Installation ........40 b. Power Cable Replacement .............42 9. Level Sensor (inspection/replacement of pressure switches, equalizer, etc...) Wireless ....................45 Level Sensor Removal ...............45...
Chapter 1 — Service Manual Overview This manual contains information about servicing, rebuilding, and troubleshooting the Extreme- Series grinder pumps. A thorough understanding of these products will save you valuable time when troubleshooting and repairing Environment One Grinder Pumps. This manual is separated into different sections/chapters to make it easy to locate the correct information quickly.
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Extreme Series Station Identification Chart Each station name is made up several different identifiers (Ex: DH272): D: D-Series (or Drywell) H: Hardwired Level Control connection 27: Tank Style 2: Duplex station (or 2 pumps) or for WR231: W: W-Series (or Wet well)
Chapter 2 — Product Introduction Wireless-Communicating Models: (DR & WR) Environment One Grinder Pumps are designed to grind and pump domestic sewage. The grinder pumps are not designed to be small lift stations. They are not capable of handling waters with high concentrations of mud, sand, silt, chemicals, abrasives, or machine wastes. Environment One’s semi-positive displacement, progressing cavity pumps provide predictable flow over a wide variety of pressures.
Chapter 3 — Troubleshooting Wireless-Communicating Models: (DR & WR) Site information is vital to proper diagnosis of a pump failure, and getting the station back to normal. When a pump requires service, an inspection of the site should be the first task performed.
Supply Voltage Checks The Environment One grinder pump is equipped with a 1725 rpm, 1 hp, multi-tap 120V / 240V motor. The wireless version is only available in the 240V configuration. The operating voltage parameters of the motor are plus or minus 10% of the specific application. This would equate to 216V to 264V in the 240V application.
Operating Voltage Checks Voltage Test (wireless controls) (In Liquid) This table assumes that the unit is in a tank that has enough water to activate the alarm switch Normal Color 1 Color 2 Operation If Reading is Wrong, Check: Reading 108V - Alarm Switch Loose Wire in EQD, Controls, Bad Alarm Switch, Bad...
Continuity Tests (wireless controls) All continuity readings should be taken after the power is turned off and verified with a voltmeter. With the pump power off, set an ohmmeter (Wavetek #5XP or equivalent) to the appropriate scale listed on the note above the specific chart (auto-ranging meters must be manually set).
Megohmmeter / Cable Insulation Integrity Check Separate EQD’s and disconnect the Tray Cable wires from the Alarm Panel. Using a 500V Megohm meter, check for shorts between all wires. Good Marginal 500M or higher Between 200M & 500M Below 200M If shorts are found, remove the EQD insert from the cable and perform test again.
Site Survey (Tank) 1. Open the Tank and Inspect Record the following on the service tag. a. Is the tank/access way flooded? a. If yes, where did the water enter? b. Was the EQD below water? c. Is the equalizer hung properly? d.
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Alarm On — Pump not Operating Possible Troubleshooting Steps Causes Incorrect Voltage Check the voltage at a location nearest the pump, such as the junction box or electrical quick disconnect (EQD) plug. The correct voltage is listed on the pump nameplate. Note: Voltage must be within 10 percent of nameplate voltage (240V: 216 to 264V;...
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Noisy Pump Possible Troubleshooting Steps Causes Normal The pump may be grinding up material. Wait a few minutes. If the Operation pump does not quiet down, remove the core and clean the basin. Low Voltage Check the voltage level. The voltage is listed on the pump nameplate.
Extreme Magic Wand Figure 3 -2 Figure 3 - 3 The Extreme Magic Wand is a very useful tool for diagnosing and identifying faults that may be occurring on a Wireless pump. It is very easy to use and it will tell the condition or status of the switches, transceiver and transponder.
Chapter – 4a Core Removal/Replacement (Dry Well versions) Open the control panel and shut off all power, going to the pump and the alarm system. Open the lid to the station. Disconnect the EQD. If the Tray Cable side EQD is wet or has moisture in it, then the EQD insert must be replaced and the source of moisture determined and corrected before connecting a new pump to it.
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Chapter - 4b Core Removal/Replacement (Open Wet Well Versions) Open the control panel and shut off all power going to the pump and alarm system. Remove the lid to the station. Disconnect the EQD. If the Tray Cable EQD is wet or has moisture in it, then the EQD insert must be replaced and the source of moisture determined and corrected before connecting a new pump to it.
Chapter 5 – Start-Up Procedure Station Inspection Check: Proper burial depth (1 to 4 inches below the hinged cover/transition joint). The ground must be graded away from the unit to prevent the water from pooling around it. Damage free, leak free. The Equalizer Tube/Power Cable must be hung at the top of the station and not lay on the core.
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Test points are taken in the alarm panel. The colors listed in the tables are the leads coming from the station and connect in the panel. Using the tables, perform the checks to assure that you are getting the appropriate readings. The values listed are the average numbers you should read on your meter.
Chapter 6 – Pump End/Grinder Mechanism Removing the Pump Stator Remove the retaining clips from the bottom of the Level Sensor. Lay the pump core on its side. Support the Motor Head on a 4 x 4 wooded block. (If Applicable). Remove the wire stand from the pump core. There is a hole in the Suction Housing that a 1/8”...
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Remove the four Inlet Shroud retaining screws using a 5/16 nut driver and pull the Inlet Shroud off of the Shredder Ring Figure 6 – 2 Remove the Shredder Ring by gripping it with a pair of vice grips. Strike the vice grips with a hammer while pulling straight out from the pump.
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Remove the Cutter Wheel by placing a plastic mallet, punch or drift on one of the paddles and striking the mallet, punch or drift with another hammer. Repeat this process until the Cutter Wheel spins free. The Cutter Wheel is threaded onto the Armature Shaft with a conventional right hand thread.
Slide the Stator and Liner off of the Rotor. The Liner may be inside of the Suction Housing. The Liner must be removed and replaced when the Stator is replaced. The Liner protects the Stator from wearing against the Suction Housing. Figure 6 - 6 Inspect the Stator for wear.
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Lobes Worn Smooth Old age is the most common reason for smooth wear. The average life of a Stator operating in a single–family home (300 GPD) is about 10 years. Higher incoming flows will shorten the life of the Stator. If two homes are on the same station, the Stator will last about five years. However, if the Stator has worn prematurely (less than six years for a single–family home), abrasives cause the wear.
Inspecting a Pump Rotor The pump Rotor has a life expectancy of about 15 years. Besides old age, the following can cause Rotor wear: • High flow (business, industry or infiltration) • Abrasives • Pump running dry The Rotor does not have to be removed from the motor shaft for inspection. When inspecting the Rotor, do not worry about scratches, lines, casting marks or pit marks.
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Figure 6 - 7 Rubber found on the Rotor indicates that the pump has run dry. Rubber can be cleaned with acetone, paint thinner or other petroleum cleaner. Inspect the Rotor for excessive wear and replace it if necessary. If unsure, replace the Stator and Liner and perform a flow check. Flow should read about 14 GPM at 15 PSI.
Removing the Pump Rotor To avoid bending the Armature Shaft, support the end of it with a wooden block. Use a hammer and a 1/8” punch to remove the groove pin that retains the Pump Rotor. Figure 6 – 8 Slide the Rotor off of the shaft.
Assembling the Pump/Grinder Mechanism To assemble the pump/grinder: If the Rotor was removed, slide the Rotor over the armature shaft, compressing the seal spring. The spring washer may need to be aligned with the shoulder of the Armature Shaft. Press the groove pin into place with channel lock pliers. Lubricating the groove pin will help to ease the installation.
Chapter 7 – EQD Disassembly and Reassembly Note: (Do not use Teflon Paste on Cord Grip threads that screw into the EQD housing.) EQD Disassembly Loosen the compression nut on the cable fitting. Figure 7-1 Loosen the four screws that retain the insert in the EQD housing. Figure 7-2...
Slide the EQD housing down the Power Cable. Remove the wires from the EQD insert by loosening the six retaining screws. Figure 7-3 EQD Reassembly Slide the EQD housing (with cable fitting installed and compression nut loose) over the power cable. If you are changing the Tray Cable side, then install the water tight grommet onto the wires.
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Insert the wire ends of the Power Cable into the EQD insert, assuring proper pin number and wire color alignment shown below: EQD,PIN# Wire Color Function Brown Manual Run Black (240V L2) or (120V Neutral) Green w/yellow Ground stripe Yellow Alarm power Feed Blue Alarm power return...
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Tighten the four connector screws into the EQD housing. Figure 7 – 7 Tighten the compression nut on the Cord Grip. Figure 7 – 8...
Cut the old stripped portion of the cable off. Slip the old EQD housing and compression fitting off the cable Slip the Extreme Series EQD housing with new compression fitting installed over the cable. Do not use pipe sealant on the compression fitting threads - damage will result! Trim outer jacket back by 2-1/4”.
Chapter 8a – Top Housing Removal/Replacement Top Housing Removal Loosen candy cane compression nut and slide candy cane away from Check/Anti- Siphon valve. Figure 8a – 1 Loosen and remove the four Top Housing bolts. Figure 8a – 2...
Spray the Power Cable and Equalizer Tube with soapy water and lift Top Housing off the top of Control Compartment. You will need to slide Power Cable and Equalizer Tube through the grommets as you are doing this. Figure 8a – 3 If the Top Housing is to be replaced, then perform the following: Discharge Tube (Candy Cane) Removal Remove the o-rings from the discharge tube.
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Bend and remove the split washer. Figure 8a – 5 Remove the compression nut by positioning it at an angle and knocking it off with a plastic or rubber mallet. Figure 8a – 6...
Remove the discharge tube from the Top Housing. Remove the cable clips that hold the Equalizer Tube and Power Cable together and separate the two. Remove the Equalizer from the Equalizer Tube. Remove the EQD Assembly as described in Chapter 7 and pull the Equalizer Tube and Power Cable completely through the Top Housing.
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2. Using tape, attach the Power Cable (EQD end) to the guide wire. Pull the cable up through the Top Housing. Do the same for the Equalizer Tube. Figure 8a – 8 3. Slide the grommets back onto the Power Cable and Equalizer Tube, using soapy water as a lubricant.
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Chapter 8b - Cable Replacement (DR & WR) Cable Removal 1. Remove top housing. Refer to Chapter 8a for DR Model. (Follow instruction for top housing removal and replacement) 2. Remove the level sensor. Refer to Chapter 9. 3. Remove the split ring compression nut from the Control Housing. Figure 8b –...
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Cable Installation 1. Make sure that the threads in the Control Housing are clean and free of debris (using a M32 x 1.5 bottom tap (Service #4209) will assure that the threads are clean and free of debris). 2. Apply Loctite 598 generously to the bottom of the strain relief over-mold and insert the wires through the cable entry.
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4. Tighten the split nut and wipe off any excess 598 that may have squeezed out. Figure 8b – 6 5. To wire the controls refer to chapter 10 then go to Control Bracket wiring directions. 6. Put the Control Housing back on the Motor Housing. Refer to Chapter 10. 7.
Chapter 9 – Level Sensor Wireless-Communicating Models: (DR & WR) Top Housing Removal NOTE: Never use Teflon Paste on the Barbed Equalizer Tube Fitting that connects to the Level Sensor (or any plastic part on the pump), as damage could occur! ONLY USE Loctite 598 on the threaded portion of the fitting! To remove the Top Housing for the DR models refer to Chapter 8a.
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Substrate Service Tool (Level Sensor Simulator) (Service Part Number 4202) Figure 9 – 2 Note: Power will need to be applied to the pump to perform the following test 1. Place the Substrate Tool (Level Sensor Simulator)(Service Part Number 4202) on the top of the control cover making sure to align the inductive coupler with the cavity on the bottom of the tool.
Level Sensor Test Procedure The Level Sensor assembly must be leak tested before disassembly and after reassembly using the method described below. To perform the field test you will need the following tools: a Digital Monometer, an Isolation Valve with a T or Y fitting, a Hand Pump, a Stop Watch and three pieces of Tubing.
Level Sensor Leak Troubleshooting & Repair If a substandard result occurs, then the following procedures need to be followed to determine where the leak is occurring and how to repair the Level Sensor Assembly. While the assembly is under pressure (82” – 90” of water (in air)), spray soapy water or leak detector around barbed fitting, and the joint between the two assembly halves.
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Pull the two columns apart to separate them. Figure 9 – 4 Using a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the Pressure Switch Retainers from both sides of the Level Sensor. Figure 9 – 5...
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To remove the On/Off Switch and the Alarm Switch, use a pair of needle nose pliers and grasp the switch at the base of the level screw bracket and gently wiggle it and pull upward. (Note: if the bracket is bent, the switch will need to be replaced as the levels will not be correct.) Figure 9 –...
Grasp the wires of the Transponder Board and gently pull to remove it. Figure 9 – 8 Level Sensor Reassembly Install the Transponder Board, with the tab oriented up and toward the top of the Level Sensor, into the slots in the On/Off side and secure it with the Philips head screw and retaining washer.
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Lubricate (Dow 111 grease) both O-rings on both pressure switches. Figure 9 – 10 Connect the red wire to terminal 1 and the brown wire to terminal 2 of the On/Off switch. Align the electrical spade connectors opposite of the Transponder Board in order to install the On/Off switch into the Level Sensor.
Equalizer Field Reset (Original Style) NOTE: Environment One does not recommend opening the original style equalizer as it is delivered from the factory. In the event that the equalizer diaphragm is thought to be collapsed, you should disconnect the equalizer tube from the equalizer itself. If the problem goes away then you should inspect the equalizer diaphragm.
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Align the mold number on the diaphragm to the hanger on the base. Install the diaphragm onto the base shell and ensure that it is completely seated. Note: make sure that the inside of the base shell is clean and dry before reinstalling the diaphragm.
Equalizer Field Reset (New Style) In the event that the equalizer diaphragm is thought to be collapsed, you should disconnect the equalizer tube from the equalizer itself. If the problem goes away then you should inspect the equalizer diaphragm. If the problem persist then the equalizer diaphragm is more than likely not collapsed.
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Push the diaphragm back into its neutral position and look for any signs of water coming out of the nipple that the Equalizer Tubing attaches to. If water comes out, the Level Sensor Assembly switch compartment will have to be inspected. Figure 9 –...
Chapter 10 – Control Cavity Wireless-Communicating Models: (DR & WR) Top End Disassembly and Level Sensor Removal Refer to Chapter 8a for the removal of the Top Housing on DR models. Refer to Chapter 9 for the removal of the Wireless Level Sensor Control Housing Removal Once the top and Level Sensor has been removed and set aside, loosen and remove the air release plug with a 3/16”...
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Using a ½” deep-well socket and a ½” wrench, remove the three retaining bolts from the Control Housing. Figure 10 - 3 Break the seal and start lifting the Control Housing with two flat head screw drivers or pry bars. Pry upward until the Control Housing is free, using caution not to pull the wires apart from the Control Bracket Assembly.
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Hang the Control Housing on the Motor Housing by inverting it and hanging it on the guide pin. Figure 10 – 5 Troubleshooting Controls Inspect the internal components for signs of corrosion and/or damage. Figure 10 – 6...
Motor Contactor and Controls The motor contactor has ten screw type terminals that hold leads. Terminals A1 and A2 are the coil. Terminals 1/L1, 3/L2, and 5/L3 are the line side of the contacts and terminals 2/T1, 4/T2, and 6/T3 are the load side of the contacts. When the On/Off Switch or manual run energizes the coil, the contacts close and run the pump.
Motor Capacitor The motor capacitor is located in the center of the Control Bracket and has two terminals. Located across the two terminals is a bleeding resistor that bleeds off any unused, stored current. One terminal runs to the start switch; the other connects to the motor start winding. The capacitor gives the motor a voltage boost while starting.
Motor Windings Test Perform motor winding resistance check per chart below to verify motor condition. Franklin Motor Field Winding Resistance Meter Wire Good Motor Resistance Bad Motor Resistance Setting Combination Black/Red 1.5 - 2.5 ohms Infinity Black/Gray 1.5 - 2.5 ohms Infinity Yellow/Blue 1.5 - 2.5 ohms...
Transceiver Board Removal Refer to Chapter 8a for the removal of the Top Housing on DR and DX models. Refer to Chapter 9 for the removal of the Wireless Level Sensor. Refer to pages 1 – 3 at the beginning of this chapter to remove the Control Housing.
Transceiver Board & Control Bracket Wiring Note: Refer to the wiring diagram on the following page for these wiring instructions. Using Butt Splices connect the yellow and blue wires from the Power Cable to the Transceiver Board. Bundle both sets wires together with a wire tie. Using a NC-8 crimp wire nut electrical connector, connect the three green ground wires together and bundle them together with a wire tie.
Control Housing Installation Unhook the Control Housing from the Motor Housing. Slide the Control Housing back onto the Motor Housing being sure not to pinch or crimp any of the wires. Note: The air release plug must be removed to install the Control Housing onto the Motor Housing.
Chapter 11 – Motor Cavity The following conditions require major repair: Defective or shorted motor Worn seal or bearings Flooded motor Major repairs must be performed in a shop equipped with the correct tools and clean facilities for proper repair and testing. Any time a pump is rebuilt, all seals, O–rings, gaskets, bearings, pump stator and pump liner should be replaced.
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Using a ½” deep-well socket and a ½” wrench, remove the four bolts holding the Motor Housing to Motor Head. Figure 11 - 1 Turn the pump assembly upside down on a bench. Be careful not to pinch the motor wires between the motor casting and the surface that you are working on.
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Once the two castings separate, lift the motor head assembly out of the motor by the shaft. Figure 11 – 3 NOTE: If the upper bearing remains in the motor bearing bore, the freeze plug will have to be removed and the bearing punched out. A new freeze plug will have to be installed. Figure 11 –...
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Remove the pump rotor. To avoid bending the Armature Shaft, support both ends of it with wooden blocks. Use a hammer and a 1/8” punch to remove the grooved pin that retains the pump rotor. Figure 11 – 5 Remove the Armature Shaft from the Motor Head. It may require that you hold the Armature Assembly from the upper bearing and tap the cutter wheel end of the shaft on a piece of 4 x 4 block.
Assembling the Core and Motor NOTE: If the motor was wet or flooded, perform the following procedures before reassembling the unit. Motor Drying Techniques NOTE: Before you dry the motor, you should clean it with a mild detergent such as Dawn Dishwashing Detergent.
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Press the new upper and lower bearings onto the Armature Shaft. Set the Motor Head on the Suction Housing or place on a bench with a hole for the Armature Shaft to penetrate. Install new Radial Seals and lubricate them with Molycote Figure 11 –...
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The Loctite 641 can be applied in different manners as shown below. You can use a sponge tip applicator to apply a thin even coat around the entire surface that you are (Figure 11 – 8) NOTE: If applying it to , or you can apply it with a nozzle tip applicator.
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Install the armature assembly into the motor head. Figure 11 – 10 With the Motor Housing upside down on the bench, place the Spring Washer in the top bearing bore...Lift the Motor Head/Armature Assembly by the Motor Head. Grasp the Armature Shaft below the Motor Head and turn it upside down.
Chapter 12 – Mechanical Seal Assembly The Mechanical Seal is a carbon/ceramic type with spring bellows. The seal kit (PT# 1208) consists of the ceramic portion, carbon portion/spring bellows, and a tube of Pac–Ease, instruction sheet, (7) lock nuts and (4) main sealing o-rings. The seal is easily installed with the motor turned upside down or lying on its side with the pump end facing the installer.
Chapter 13 – Final Test Procedures The following test procedures must be performed prior to reinstalling the grinder pump. Failure to test the unit can result in core flooding or a damaged unit. Leak Tests Leaks detected by these tests must be repaired before performing other tests or installing a unit.
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Install the air test fitting into the ground screw hole and the two control bracket screws into their holes. Figure 13 – 2 Place the pump into a 5 gallon bucket with enough water in it to cover the Motor Head and Discharge Elbow.
If this test is being performed on a unit during disassembly, turn the assembly upside down and remove the hose from the test fitting. Look for water escaping from the motor cavity. If water is noted, the motor will need new bearings and the windings will need to be cleaned, dried and tested.
Test Run A test tank and panel (available from E/One) is recommended for run-testing the pump. The test tank has a discharge assembly for the D series pumps, or slide face for the W series pumps. A pressure gauge and ball valve should be added to operate the pump under pressure.
Amperage Draw Test Set the clamp on amp meter to the desired scale. Hook the probe around the black power lead in the control panel. With the power on, fill the tank until the pump operates. Read the current directly. Refer to the following table for troubleshooting information. The figures shown are averages and meant to be used for approximation since motors, voltages and amp meters vary.
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For more information, please contact your local distributor: Environment One Corporation 2773 Balltown Road Niskayuna, New York USA 12309–1090 Tel: (01) 518.346.6161 Fax: 518.346.6188 www.eone.com NA0401P02 Rev. – 06/13...
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