E-one Extreme Series Service Manual
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E-one Extreme Series Service Manual

Grinder pumps
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E/One Extreme
Grinder Pumps
240V, 60 Hz • Hardwired Controls

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Summary of Contents for E-one Extreme Series

  • Page 1 Service Manual E/One Extreme Grinder Pumps 240V, 60 Hz • Hardwired Controls...

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Chapter 6 — Electrical Quick Disconnect (EQD) ......................6-1 Disassembling the EQD ..............................6-1 Reassembling the EQD ..............................6-2 EQD Retrofit: 2000 Series to Extreme Series .........................6-3 EQD Retrofit: 200 Series to Extreme Series ........................6-4 Chapter 7 — Top Housing ..............................7-1 D-Series Top Housing Removal ............................7-1 Discharge (Candy Cane) Removal ..........................7-2...
  • Page 4 Level Sensor Leak Troubleshooting & Repair ........................8-2 Level Sensor Disassembly ...............................8-2 Column Leak Test ................................8-4 Level Sensor Reassembly ..............................8-4 Equalizer Field Reset — Original Style (May 2012 & Earlier) ..................8-6 Equalizer Field Reset — New Style (May 2012 to Present) ...................8-8 Chapter 9 —...

  • Page 5: Chapter 1 - Introduction

    Chapter 1 — Introduction This manual contains information about servicing, rebuilding and troubleshooting E/One Extreme Series grinder pumps. A thorough understanding of these products will save valuable time when troubleshooting and repairing E/One grinder pumps. About E/One Model Names This manual contains information specific to the hardwired model. The flag tag on the pump cable will include “H”...

  • Page 6: Basic Operation

    Basic Operation The grinder pump is designed to grind and pump domestic sewage. The pump is a semi- positive displacement, progressing cavity pump. The grinder pump consists of a pump assembly with an integral sewage grinder and shredder device. The pump traps a column of air in the sensing bell for the on-off pressure switch.

  • Page 7: Chapter 2 - Troubleshooting

    Chapter 2 — Troubleshooting Site information is vital to proper diagnosis of a pump failure and returning the station to operation. When a pump requires service, perform an inspection of the site first. Site Survey — Alarm Panel Observe the site. Record the following on the service tag: •...

  • Page 8: Supply Voltage Checks

    Supply Voltage Checks The Environment One grinder pump is equipped with a 1725 rpm, 1 hp, multi-tap 120V/240V motor. The operating voltage parameters of the motor are plus or minus 10 percent of the specific application, equating to 108V to 132V in the 120V application and 216V to 264V in the 240V application.
  • Page 9 Figure 2-2, Phase Charts 1 Phase, 240V 180 Degrees out of Phase 120V 120V 120V 120V 120V 120V 120V 120V 3 Phase, 208V 120 Degrees out of Phase 120V 120V 120V 120V 120V 120V 120V 3 Phase, 240V Buck Boost Transformer 152V 152V 120V...

  • Page 10: Buck Boost Transformer - 240V Application

    Buck Boost Transformer — 240V Application If the supply voltage on a 240V application is 208V 3 phase, a buck boost transformer must be installed. Not installing the transformer will shorten the life of the motor significantly. A buck boost transformer manipulates one leg of the supply voltage. It will raise the one leg approximately 32V (240V –...
  • Page 11 240V Continuity Checks This table assumes the pump has shut off on its own or is not installed in a tank. Color/Pin # Color/Pin # Normal Reading Operation If Reading is Wrong, Check: Brown 1 Red 2 OL or Open On/off switch off Bad switch;...
  • Page 12 120V Continuity Checks This table assumes the pump has shut off on its own or is not installed in a tank. Color/Pin # Color/Pin # Normal Reading Operation If Reading is Wrong, Check: Brown 1 Red 2 OL or Open On/off switch off Bad switch;...

  • Page 13: Amperage Checks

    Amperage Checks Using a clamp-on amp meter can be helpful for identifying problems such as a restricted or blocked discharge line, blown stator, or faulty check valve/anti-siphon. Set the clamp-on amp meter to the appropriate scale. Hook the probe around the black power lead in the alarm panel. With the power on, fill the tank until the pump operates, or press the push-to-run switch in the alarm panel.

  • Page 14: Site Survey - Tank

    Site Survey — Tank Open the tank and inspect. Record the following on the service tag: • Is the station lid above grade? • Is the tank/accessway flooded? If yes, where did the water enter? • Was the EQD below water? •...

  • Page 15: Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting Alarm On — Pump Running but not Pumping Possible Causes Troubleshooting Steps Blocked discharge line, Check the amperage. If the amperage is high (8 amps or higher), turn off the worn stator or leak in pump and check the discharge line for blockage. Confirm that the pump has pump discharge assem- not been damaged by disconnecting the discharge piping and recycling the fluid in the tank.
  • Page 16 Alarm Activates Frequently Possible Causes Troubleshooting Steps High flow The incoming flow is greater than the pump can handle. Infiltration, a sump pump, a hot tub or any other appliance that produces excessive water flow can cause a high flow alarm. Plugged vent or Equal- Check the vent and the Equalizer tube.
  • Page 17 Figure 2-3a, Wiring Schematic, 240V, May 2015 & Later (Serial Number 531884) Basic Alarm 240VAC 60Hz ALARM/DISCONNECT ALARM LAMP Board (PC1139G01) TWO POLE - HARDWIRE MAIN SUPPLY PANEL (RECOMMENDED WIRING CONFIG, NOT SUPPLIED BY E/ONE) LEVEL CONTROL WIRELESS WIRED SILENCE SWITCH Resistor SILENCE...
  • Page 18 Figure 2-3b, Wiring Schematic, 120V, May 2015 & Later (Serial Number 531884) Basic Alarm 120VAC 60Hz ALARM/DISCONNECT ALARM LAMP Board (PC1139G01) SINGLE POLE - HARDWIRE MAIN SUPPLY PANEL (RECOMMENDED WIRING CONFIG, NOT SUPPLIED BY E/ONE) LEVEL CONTROL WIRED WIRELESS SILENCE SWITCH Resistor SILENCE...
  • Page 19 Figure 2-4a, Wiring Schematic, 240V, May 2015 & Earlier (Serial Number 531883) Basic Alarm 240VAC 60Hz ALARM/DISCONNECT ALARM LAMP Board (PC1139G01) TWO POLE - HARDWIRE MAIN SUPPLY PANEL (RECOMMENDED WIRING CONFIG, NOT SUPPLIED BY E/ONE) LEVEL CONTROL WIRED WIRELESS SILENCE SWITCH Resistor SILENCE...
  • Page 20 Figure 2-4b, Wiring Schematic, 120V, May 2015 & Earlier (Serial Number 531883) Basic Alarm 120VAC 60Hz ALARM/DISCONNECT ALARM LAMP Board (PC1139G01) SINGLE POLE - HARDWIRE MAIN SUPPLY PANEL (RECOMMENDED WIRING CONFIG, NOT SUPPLIED BY E/ONE) LEVEL CONTROL WIRED WIRELESS SILENCE SWITCH Resistor SILENCE...

  • Page 21: Chapter 3 - Pump Removal And Replacement

    Chapter 3 — Pump Removal and Replacement The procedure for removing and replacing the pump is different for D-Series, W-Series and IH stations. Refer to the following instructions for each model. D-Series Stations Open the alarm panel and shut off all power to the pump and the alarm system. Remove the station lid.

  • Page 22: W-Series And Upgrade Stations

    W-Series and Upgrade Stations Open the alarm panel and shut off all power going to the pump and alarm system. Remove the station lid. Disconnect the EQD. If the tray cable side of the EQD is wet or shows evidence of moisture, the EQD insert must be replaced.

  • Page 23: Chapter 4 - Start-Up Procedure

    Chapter 4 — Start-Up Procedure Station Inspection Inspect the following: Proper burial depth (1 to 4 inches below the hinged cover/transition joint). The ground must be graded to prevent water from pooling around the station. Free from damage and leaks. The Equalizer tube/power cable must be hung at the top of the station and not lay on the pump or in wastewater.

  • Page 24: Run Test

    If the tests do not pass, unplug the EQD in tank. Repeat the test at the alarm panel, then at the pump EQD. The EQD pin numbers are listed with the corresponding wire colors in the tables. This will help pinpoint where a problem is located. Note: Green 4 to Yellow 5 and Blue 6 must show Infinity or open line when testing at the pins in the pump EQD.

  • Page 25: Chapter 5 - Pump End

    Chapter 5 — Pump End Removing the Pump Stator Remove the retaining clips from the bottom of the level sensor. Lay the pump core on its side. Support the motor head on a 4x4 wooden block. On W-Series, Gatorgrinder and Upgrade pumps, remove the wire stand from the pump.
  • Page 26 Figure 5-3 Remove the cutter wheel by placing a plastic mallet, punch or drift on one of the paddles and striking the mallet, punch or drift with another hammer. Repeat until the cutter wheel spins free. The cutter wheel is threaded onto the armature shaft with a conventional right hand thread.

  • Page 27: Pump Stator Inspection

    Figure 5-6 Slide the stator and liner off of the rotor. The liner may be inside of the suction housing. The liner must be removed and replaced when the stator is replaced. The liner protects the stator from wearing against the suction housing. Inspect the stator for wear.

  • Page 28: Swollen Pump Stator

    Lobes Worn Smooth. Old age is the most common reason for smooth wear. The average life of a stator operating in a single-family home (300 gpd) is about 10 years. Higher incoming flows will shorten the life of the stator. If two homes are on the same station, the stator will last about five years.

  • Page 29: Inspecting A Pump Rotor

    Inspecting a Pump Rotor The pump rotor has a life expectancy of about 15 years. Besides age, the following can cause rotor wear: • High flow (business, industry or infiltration) • Abrasives • Pump running dry The rotor does not have to be removed from the motor shaft for inspection. When inspecting the rotor, do not worry about scratches, lines, casting marks or pit marks.

  • Page 30: Removing The Pump Rotor

    Removing the Pump Rotor Support the end of the motor shaft with a wooden block. Use a hammer and a 1/8-inch punch to remove the groove pin that retains the pump rotor. Figure 5-8 Slide the rotor off of the shaft. If the rotor sticks, use a plastic mallet to tap the end of the rotor until it comes off.
  • Page 31 one side, maintain pressure, and drive the opposite side into place. Ensure the shredder ring is seated all the way around. Rotate the cutter wheel to ensure it does not interfere with the shredder ring. Install the inlet shroud. Tighten the four screws diagonally Reinstall the core.
  • Page 32 Figure 5-9a, D-Series Pump, Exploded View Pump End 5–8...
  • Page 33 Figure 5-9b, W-Series Pump, Exploded View Pump End 5–9...
  • Page 34 Figure 5-9c, Gatorgrinder (GH Series) Pump, Exploded View Pump End 5–10...
  • Page 35 Figure 5-9d, IH091 Pump, Exploded View Pump End 5–11...
  • Page 36 Pump End 5–12...

  • Page 37: Chapter 6 - Electrical Quick Disconnect (Eqd)

    Chapter 6 — Electrical Quick Disconnect (EQD) Note: Do not use Teflon paste on the cord grip threads that screw into the EQD housing. Disassembling the EQD Loosen the compression nut on the cable fitting. Figure 6-1 Loosen the four screws that hold the insert in the EQD housing. Figure 6-2 Slide the EQD housing down the power cable.

  • Page 38: Reassembling The Eqd

    Loosen the six retaining screws and remove the wires from the EQD insert. Figure 6-3 Reassembling the EQD Slide the EQD housing (with cable fitting installed and compression nut loose) over the power cable. Tray cable side: install the watertight grommet onto the wires. Keep the tapered side toward the cable jacket, not the cable end. Taper Figure 6-4 Insert the wire ends of the power cable into the EQD insert, ensuring proper pin number and wire color alignment: EQD Pin # Wire Color Function Brown...

  • Page 39: Eqd Retrofit: 2000 Series To Extreme Series

    Tighten the compression nut on the cord grip. Figure 6-6 EQD Retrofit: 2000 Series to Extreme Series To seal the core bolt inserts in the tank transition, install the six foam pads onto the underside of the new top housing. Flats on the underside will guide you.

  • Page 40: Eqd Retrofit: 200 Series To Extreme Series

    Slip the Extreme Series EQD housing with new compression fitting installed over the cable. Do not use pipe sealant on the compression fitting threads — damage will result! Trim the outer jacket back by 2 1/4 inches. Strip the six individual wire leads 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch.

  • Page 41: Chapter 7 - Top Housing

    Chapter 7 — Top Housing D-Series Top Housing Removal Loosen the candy cane compression nut and slide the candy cane away from the check valve/anti-siphon. Figure 7-1 Loosen and remove the four top housing bolts. Figure 7-2 Spray the power cable and Equalizer tube with soapy water and lift off the top housing from the top of the control compartment.

  • Page 42: Discharge (Candy Cane) Removal

    Discharge (Candy Cane) Removal Remove the O-rings from the discharge tube. Figure 7-3 Bend and remove the split washer. Figure 7-4 Remove the compression nut by positioning it at an angle and knocking it off using a plastic or rubber mallet. Figure 7-5 Top Housing 7–2...

  • Page 43: D-Series Top Housing Reassembly And Installation

    Remove the discharge tube from the top housing. Remove the cable clips that hold the Equalizer tube and power cable together and separate the two. Remove the EQD assembly as described in Chapter 6 – EQD and pull the Equalizer tube and power cable through the top housing.

  • Page 44: Ih Station Top Housing Removal

    Use a small, flat head screwdriver to seat the power cable and Equalizer tube grommets into the top housing. Take care not to tear the grommet. Figure 7-8 Secure the top housing onto the control compartment casting with the four bolts and four new Nyloc nuts.

  • Page 45: Ih Station Top Housing Replacement

    Remove power cable/Equalizer tube restraint and separate the two. Figure 7-11 Lift the top housing and anti-siphon/check valve off the top of control compartment as one assembly. Simultaneously slide the cable and Equalizer hose through the cord grips to loosen the compression nuts.

  • Page 46: Cable Replacement

    Install and secure the four top housing bolts with four new Nyloc nuts and tighten in an X pattern. Install the four bolts and secure the check valve/anti-siphon to the discharge elbow. Reconnect the power cable to the alarm panel. Re-install the Equalizer.
  • Page 47 Cable Installation Ensure the threads in the control housing are clean and free of debris. Using a M32 x 1.5 bottom tap (PT# 4209) will ensure that the threads are clean. Apply Loctite 598 generously to the bottom of the strain relief over-mold and insert the wires through the cable entry.
  • Page 48 To wire the controls, refer to Chapter 9 – Control Cavity. Reassemble the control housing back on the motor housing as described in Chapter 9 – Control Cavity. Air test the control compartment as described in Chapter 12 – Final Test Procedures. Connect the wires to the level sensor and reassemble as described in Chapter 8 –...

  • Page 49: Chapter 8 - Level Sensor

    Chapter 8 — Level Sensor Note: NEVER use Teflon paste on the threads of the cord grip (power cable) or the threads of the barbed fitting (Equalizer tube) that are connected to the top of the level sensor (or any plastic part on the pump) because damage could occur! Use only Loctite 598 on the threaded portions! Level Sensor Removal Refer to Chapter 7 –...

  • Page 50: Level Sensor Leak Troubleshooting & Repair

    The configuration above is a field or shop configuration. You can also use a regulated air source into tube #1 for a shop configuration. Connect the three pieces of tubing to the pump or regulated air source, the monometer and the level sensor assembly in the configuration shown above. Pressurize the level sensor assembly to 82 inches to 90 inches of water column in air (approximately 3 psi).
  • Page 51 Using needlenose pliers, remove the pressure switch retainers from both sides of level sensor (Fig. 8-6). Remove the flag terminals from the switches (Fig. 8-7). Figure 8-7 Figure 8-6 Remove the on/off switch (Fig. 8-8) and the molded radial seal (Fig. 8-9). Note: The seal will also stick in the alarm side.

  • Page 52: Column Leak Test

    Column Leak Test Cover the column hole in the switch compartment with your thumb. Figure 8-12 Submerge the side of the level sensor assembly that you are testing into a container of water that is deep enough (at least 19 inches) to submerge it up to the top of the column at the switch compartment.
  • Page 53 If the barbed fitting or liquid tight cord grip is being replaced, put a fine bead of Loctite 598 on the threads before installing them into the assembly. Figure 8-15 Figure 8-14 Using Dow 111 grease, lubricate the O-rings on the new switches (Fig. 8-16) and install them (On/Off switch in the Equalizer barbed fitting side and the Alarm switch in the cable entry side).

  • Page 54: Equalizer Field Reset - Original Style (May 2012 & Earlier)

    Mate the two halves together, ensuring that wires are not in the way. Install the four screws, taking care not to overtighten (Fig. 8-21). Perform the level sensor test procedure. Figure 8-20 Figure 8-21 Equalizer Field Reset — Original Style (May 2012 & Earlier) Note: Environment One does not recommend opening the original-style Equalizer.
  • Page 55 Remove the collapsed diaphragm, clean and dry it, and reshape it to the neutral position. Figure 8-23 Figure 8-24 Align the mold number on the diaphragm to the hanger on the base. Install the diaphragm onto the base shell and ensure that it is seated completely. Figure 8-25 Figure 8-26 With the logo upright, set the cover on the base evenly and center the cover snap to...

  • Page 56: Equalizer Field Reset - New Style (May 2012 To Present)

    Equalizer Field Reset — New Style (May 2012 to Present) Note: This Equalizer design changed in May 2012, pump serial number 439086. If the Equalizer diaphragm appears to have collapsed, disconnect the Equalizer tube from the Equalizer. If the problem goes away, inspect the Equalizer diaphragm. If the problem persists, the Equalizer diaphragm likely has not collapsed.
  • Page 57 Push the diaphragm back into its neutral position and look for signs of water coming out of the nipple attached to the Equalizer tube. If water is present, inspect the level sensor assembly switch compartment. Figure 8-32 Figure 8-33 Snap the inspection cover back into place on the front of the Equalizer assembly and reattach the Equalizer tube.
  • Page 58 Figure 8-35, Level Sensor Assembly Exploded View (all hardwired pumps) Level Sensor 8–10...

  • Page 59: Chapter 9 - Control Cavity

    Chapter 9 — Control Cavity Removing the Control Housing Remove the top housing and level sensors as described in Chapter 7 – Top Housing and Chapter 8 – Level Sensor, respectively. Loosen and remove the air release plug using a 3/16-inch hex key. Figure 9-1 Install the control cavity air test fitting and use a regulated low pressure line or hand pump to pressurize the control cavity to 5 psi.

  • Page 60: Motor Contactor And Controls

    Figure 9-3 Hang the control housing on the motor housing by inverting it and hanging it on the guide pin. Figure 9-4 Motor Contactor and Controls Inspect the internal components for signs of corrosion, moisture and/or damage. The motor contactor has 10 screw-type terminals that hold leads: •...
  • Page 61 Motor Start Switch The control bracket must be removed in order to access the start switch. The motor start switch is mounted to the control bracket and has three spade terminals. Terminals 1 and 3 are attached to a coil; a reed switch runs inside the coil. When the pump motor is energized, a magnetic field is created that engages and disengages the start winding.

  • Page 62: Motor Cavity Water Test

    Thermal Protector The thermal protector keeps the motor from running too long above its rated amperage, preventing possible motor or pump damage. This is an auto-reset switch; two wires are permanently attached to the protector on the normally closed contacts. A second thermal is wound into the windings of the motor and protects the motor from overheating.

  • Page 63: Motor Windings Test

    Motor Windings Test Perform motor winding resistance checks per the following charts to verify motor condition. Note: While all of the wires are disconnected between the control bracket and the power cable, replace the two O-rings on the motor casting before rewiring the controls. Use Molycote 55 grease on the motor housing and the motor head O-rings.

  • Page 64: Control Housing Installation

    Control Bracket Installation — 240V Connect the cable ground wire to the chassis and connect the proper wires to the start switch before installing the bracket. Refer to the wiring road map in Chapter 2 – Troubleshooting for the correct wiring configuration.

  • Page 65: Chapter 10 - Motor Cavity

    Chapter 10 — Motor Cavity A defective or shorted motor; worn seal or bearings; or flooded motor require major repair. Major repairs must be performed in a shop that is equipped with the correct tools and clean facilities for proper repair and testing. Any time a pump is rebuilt, all seals, O-rings, gaskets, bearings, pump stator and pump liner should be replaced.

  • Page 66: Motor Drying Techniques

    Note: If the upper bearing remains in the motor bearing bore, the freeze plug will have to be removed and the bearing punched out. A new freeze plug will need to be installed. Remove the pump rotor. Support both ends with wooden blocks to avoid bending the armature shaft.
  • Page 67 • Hang a heat lamp with a 300 watt bulb 1 foot from the opening of the motor casting and dry for at least 4 hours. • Lay the casting down and put a space heater that has a fan about 1 foot from the opening of the motor casting and dry for at least 4 hours.
  • Page 68 Note: If you are applying Loctite 641 to the bearing race, apply it to the portion of the race that will enter the bearing bore first. If you are applying Loctite 641 to the bearing bore, apply it to the area of the bore that will come into contact with the bearing race first when it is being installed (Figure 10-8).

  • Page 69: Chapter 11 - Mechanical Seal Assembly

    Chapter 11 — Mechanical Seal Assembly The mechanical seal is a carbon/ceramic type with spring bellows. The seal kit (PT# 1208) consists of the ceramic portion, carbon portion/spring bellows, Pac–Ease, instruction sheet, seven lock nuts and four main sealing O-rings. The seal is easily installed with the motor turned upside down or lying on its side with the pump end facing the installer.
  • Page 70 Mechanical Seal Assembly 11–2...

  • Page 71: Chapter 12 - Final Test Procedures

    Chapter 12 — Final Test Procedures Leak Tests Leaks must be repaired before performing other tests or installing the unit for use. Failure to test the unit can result in core flooding or a damaged unit. After leak testing is complete, perform the remaining test procedures.
  • Page 72 Figure 12-3 Use a regulated low pressure line or hand pump to pressurize the motor cavity to 5 psi and look for bubbles. Bubbles from the discharge elbow indicate a seal leak and bubbles from around the motor head/motor housing joint indicate a motor housing O-ring leak.

  • Page 73: Test Run

    Test Run A test tank and panel (available from E/One) are recommended for run-testing the pump. The test tank has a discharge assembly for D-Series pumps, or slide face the W-Series pumps. A pressure gauge and ball valve should be added to operate the pump under pressure. A two- tank setup with sump pump to pump water back to the test tank is ideal.
  • Page 74 A jammed grinder may trip the circuit breaker or cause the overload protector to cycle and this will cause the pump to cycle on and off and finally result in an alarm condition. A torn or worn out pump stator results in a “runs but does not pump” condition and causes an alarm. Current readings with a clamp-on amp meter will show 4.0 to 4.5 amps when the motor is running without a load.
  • Page 76 For more information, please contact your local distributor: A Precision Castparts Company Environment One Corporation 2773 Balltown Road Niskayuna, New York USA 12309–1090 Tel: (01) 518.346.6161 Fax: 518.346.6188 NA0401P01 Rev C www.eone.com 06/16 Copyright © 2007 by Environment One Corporation ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

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