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Table of Contents
CLUTCH
127
are fully meshed the clutch release lever
will be positioned as shown in Figure
8,
with the machined side of the housing
facing up.
Use a new cotter pin to secure the cable in
the release lever. Spread its ends.
Make sure the 2 sprocket cover dowel
pins are in place (Figure 9).
Align the shift pedal with the top of the
footpeg.
I.
Adjust the clutch as described under
Clutch Adjustment in Chapter Three.
Inspection
Clean all parts in solvent and dry them.
Check the balls for wear or pitting; replace if
damaged.
On models with spiral release gears, inspect
the grooves in the inner gear and outer housing.
If they show signs of wear, replace the entire
assembly. Upon reassembly, push the inner
gear back and forth in the direction of the shaft
without turning it. If there is excessive play,
replace the entire assembly.
CLUTCH
All of the clutch c o m p o n e n t s can be
removed while the engine is mounted in the
frame.
Disassembly
1. See Figure 10. Put the bike up on its
centerstand and drain the engine oil, then place
the oil drain pan under the clutch cover.
2. Remove the
9
clutch cover screws (Figure
11).
3. Free the cover by tapping it gently with a
soft mallet. Remove the cover. Be careful not
to damage the gasket.
CA
CTTION
sure that you have removed all the
fasteners. If the cover is hard to remove,
check .for any fasteners you may have
missed. Do not try to pry the cover offthe
englne case or you will damage the
sealing surfaces.
4. Loosen the 5 clutch pressure plate bolts
gradually in a crisscross pattern.
5. Remove the bolts, springs and the pressure
plate.
6. Remove the pressure plate pusher and the
steel ball behind it.
7. Pull the clutch release pushrod out of the
center of the transmission input shaft.
8. Remove the clutch plates from the hub.
9. Remove the clutch hub nut from the input
shaft (Figure 12).
NOTE
To remove the clutch hub nut, you must
hold the clutch hub (which is mounted
on the transmission input shaft) steady.
You can lock the input shaft by stuffing
a clean rag or a copper penny between
the secondary shaft gear and clutch ring
gear teeth or by using a special tool,
such as the "Grabbit," available from
Joe Bolger Products, Inc., Summer
Street, Barre, MA 01005.
10. Remove the spring washer, inner clutch
hub and thrust washer.
11. Remove the input shaft sleeve, bearing
and spacer.
Inspection
1. Inspect the friction plates for signs of
overheating or a burnt smell. Replace them if
damaged.
2. Measure the thickness of each friction plate
at several places around the plate as shown in
Figure 13. Replace any plate that is worn
thinner than the wear limit in Table 1.
3.
Lay each plate on a flat surface. If there is a
gap between any part of the clutch plate and the
flat surface, measure the warpage with feeler
gauges (Figure 14). Replace any plate with a
warp greater than the service limit in Table 1.
4. Insert a friction plate into the outer housing
and rotate the plate until one side ofeach tab on
it is butted up against the housing. With feeler
gauges, measure the clearance between the
other side of each tab and the housing (Figure
15). Replace any plate with clearance greater
than 0.028 in. (0.7 mm). Ideal clearance is
0.014-0.020 in. (0.35-0.65 mm). Too much
clearance will cause clutch rattle. Too little
clearance will cause clutch drag.
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   Also See for Kawasaki KZ500

This manual is also suitable for:

Zx550Kz550Kzx550

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