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Do not try to hammer the pin in. You
could bend the connecting rod or
damage the rod bearings.
5. Install new circlips where removed. After
installing each circlip, rotate it so that the gap
lies at the bottom or top. Make sure that the
clips are fully seated in the grooves.
Never reuse an old circlip. It becomes
weak in the process of removal and could
work loose and cause serious engine
6. To minimize blowby, rotate the top and
bottom ring on each piston so that the ring
openings face forward. Rotate the second ring
so that its opening faces the rear of the engine.
With 3-piece oil rings, the 2 rails should each be
offset about 30' to either side of the expander
opening (Figure 82).
The KZ550-D is equipped with an oil cooler
mounted in front of the engine (Figure 83). The
cooler must be disconnected when the engine is
removed from the frame or when the oil pan is
1. Put the bike up on its centerstand and put an
oil drain pan under the engine.
2. Drain the engine oil (see Chapter Three,
Engine Oil and Filter).
3. Remove the 4 oil cooler line mounting bolts
at the front of the oil pan (Figure 84).
4. Remove the 4 oil cooler mounting bolts and
washers (Figure 83). Each bolt has an inner
sleeve and a rubber grommet.
5. To disconnect the oil cooling lines, hold the
fitting on the bottom of the cooler with a
wrench to keep it from tearing out ofthe cooler
and loosen the cooling line nut.
6. To install the cooler, reverse the removal
steps. Note the following:
a. Inspect the oil cooler fitting O-rings and
install new ones if damaged.
b. The return line from the right side of the
oil cooler goes to the upper hole in the oil
pan and the supply line from the left side
of the oil cooler goes to the lower hole.
c. Torque the mounting bolts as specified in
Table 2.
d. Add engine oil; see Engine Oil and Filter
in Chapter Three. Recheck the oil level
after the engine has run a short time and
add oil if necessary.
Engine removal and crankcase separation
are required for repair of the bottom end
(crankshaft, connecting rods and bearings),
transmission and shift drum/forks. Although
the following parts can be left attached for
engine removal, we recommend that you
remove them first; it makes the engine much
lighter to handle. Also, while the engine is in
the frame you can use the rear brake to lock the
drive train when required, instead of resorting
to makeshift or expensive tools:
a. Top end (camshafts, cylinder head,
cylinder block, pistons)
b. Alternator rotor and electric starter (refer
to Chapter Eight)
c. Clutch hub and plates (refer to Chapter
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