Operation; Switch; Cutting With Your Saw; Crosscuts - DeWalt DW716 Instruction Manual
12" double bevel compound miter saw
Hide thumbs
Also See for DW716:
- Original instructions manual (136 pages) ,
- Instruction manual (7 pages) ,
- Instruction manual (57 pages)
Table of Contents
Advertisement
Available languages
Available languages
0˚ BEVEL OVERRIDE (FIG. 8)
The bevel stop override (S) allows you to bevel the saw to
the right past the 0˚ mark.
The saw will automatically stop at 0˚ when brought up from
the left. To move past 0˚ to the right, pull the bevel stop
knob. The stop knob can be locked out by pulling the knob
out and rotating it 180˚.
45˚ BEVEL STOP OVERRIDES (FIG. 8)
The bevel stop overrides (N) are held secure with their
attachment screw to prevent inadvertent movement. Use
the bit on the blade wrench to loosen the attachment
screw. This allows the slides, to be pulled outward and the
saw head to pivot past the 45˚ mark. Be sure to retighten
the attachment screw when finished.
33.85˚ BEVEL STOPS (FIG. 8)
The two pawls (P) are used to stop the saw head bevel
setting at 33.85˚. This setting is used primarily for cutting
crown moldings laid flat on the table.
HEAD DOWNLOCK PIN (FIG. 8)
To lock the saw head in the down position, push the head
down, push the pin (U) in and release the saw head. This
will hold the saw head safely down for moving the saw
from place to place. To release, press the saw head down
and pull the pin out.
Operation
Plug the saw into any household 60 Hz power source.
Refer to the nameplate for voltage. Be sure the cord will
not interfere with your work.
SWITCH
To turn the saw on, depress the trigger switch. To turn the
tool off, release the switch. Allow the blade to spin up to full
operating rpm before making the cut. Release the trigger
switch and allow the brake to stop the blade before raising
the saw head. There is no provision for locking the switch
on, but a hole is provided in the trigger for insertion of a
padlock to lock the saw off.
CUTTING WITH YOUR SAW
NOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many non-
ferrous materials, we will limit our discussion to the cutting
of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other mate-
rials. DO NOT CUT FERROUS (IRON AND STEEL)
MATERIALS OR MASONRY WITH THIS SAW. Do not
use any abrasive blades.
CROSSCUTS
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be
done safely by ensuring that each piece is held firmly
against the table and fence. A crosscut is made by cutting
wood across the grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is
made with the miter arm at the zero degree position. Set
the miter arm at zero, hold the wood on the table and
firmly against the fence. Turn on the saw by squeezing
the trigger.
FIG. 12
PROPER CUT
FIG. 12A
IMPROPER CUT
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower
the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let
the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle
other than zero. This angle is often 45 degrees for making
corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50 degrees
left or right. After selecting the desired miter angle, be sure
to lock miter lock lever. Make the cut as described above.
BEVEL CUTS
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a
bevel to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the
bevel clamp knob and move the saw to the left as desired.
(It is necessary to move the fence to allow clearance).
Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the
bevel clamp knob firmly.
Bevel angles can be set from 48 degrees right to
48 degrees left and can be cut with the miter arm set
between zero and 50 degrees right or left. At some
extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to
be removed. To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the
knobs several turns and slide the fence out.
QUALITY OF CUT
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables.
Things like material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness
and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other
precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a
slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop
before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the work-
piece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the
cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully
remove tape when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recom-
mended saw blades for your saw and select the one that
best fits your needs (page 4).
BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 12)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating
the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and
safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands
no closer than 6" from the blade. Hold the workpiece tight-
ly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in
position until the trigger has been released and the blade
has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS
(UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU
CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT
CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 12A.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper bal-
ance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and
stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through
the guard louvers when following a pencil line.
Hide quick links:
Advertisement
Chapters
Table of Contents
